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Post by dogbert22 on Jun 15, 2011 7:35:16 GMT -5
Hi Guys, I just came into possession of a mopar "gold" electronic ignition box. I'm wondering if I can swap it out with the existing (and working fine) box without any "issues". I'm by no means a racer but I think it looks cool My concerns are driveability and longevity.
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brock
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Post by brock on Jun 15, 2011 20:02:02 GMT -5
The short answer has always been, Race Only." I never liked that answer, because it doesn't explain anything.
Here is what the 82 Direct Connection Engine Modification book has to offer:
Gold Box Race Electronic Control Unit P4120600 The new "Gold Box" electronic control unit P4120600 is the latest high performance ignition system from Chrysler. It is designed to give better performance at high engine speeds, more reliability and versatility, and has a flat dwell curve.
It is assumed that the new Gold Box will be replacing an older Chrome Box (P4007298, P4120505, p4120534) and therefor the complete step-by-step instructions for in- stalling an electronic ignition are not given here. If they are needed, please refer to page 253 of this bulletin.
The Gold Box is not a complete ignition system by itself. It is a direct replacement for the Chroime Boxes and is wired the same way. The diagram is for reference only. If the ignition system is is being converted from something other than the Chrome Box, use the in- structions on page 253and a new wiring harness P3690152.
Refer to the application Figure 25-6 for the actual pieces to use - coil, ballast resistor - for your application. Do not mix and match components.
With this high output ignition system it is highly recommended that the Direct Connection high per- formance, 8mm, metal core, spark plug wires be used to get the full performance from the engine the the ignition system offers.
It it very worthwhile to mount the control box, coil and ballast resistors in as cool a place as possible - especially with the high rpm system.
Some suggested locations are: the inner fender skirt, the radiator baffle, the grille cavity, or the outer firewall area (interior is probably what was meant)
When mounting the electronic control unbit, remember that the exposed power transistor case is electrically hot. The unit should be mounted in an area which minimizes the possibility of shorting the transistor when working in the engine area. Shorting the power transistors to the heat sink or any ground while the power is on may damage the control unit.
up to 5500 rpm: production coil 0.5 - 0.7 ohm ballast resistor
up to 6000 rpm: Accel 140001...0.5 - 0.8 ohm ballast resistor
up to 10.5Krpm: P3690560 coil........0.25 ohm ballast resistor
P3690560 coil = Accel 140306. The race coil combination is NOT for prolonged use under 2000 rpm, use only ECU coil and resistor combination listed. Do NOT mix and match components.
Figure 25-6 is a chart ( longer than the chart above & includes other Boxes).
In the chart above the first two listings are dual ballast values.
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Post by dogbert22 on Jun 16, 2011 15:01:52 GMT -5
Thanks Brock. I'm going to have to check my ballast resistor (it's the dual, 4-post kind) to see what it's resistance really is, have no idea. Do you think my Petronix coil will work or do I risk melting that one with this "hot box"?
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brock
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MEGA KILOVOLT-MASTER
Posts: 3,459
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Post by brock on Jun 16, 2011 16:36:08 GMT -5
I have no idea Rick. I have the HEMI Dual Point with Tach Drive. Had to yank the points & add Pertronix guts to get spark - I now see why they quit Just as well - haven't found a set of points in forever. All your HEMI SS cars run the Pertronix (as seen in the mags) If I read it right: should be OK as long as you don't use the 0.25 Ohm resistor.
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Post by dogbert22 on Jun 16, 2011 21:39:20 GMT -5
Well Brock thanks for the answer. I'm going to give it a whirl and see what happens. If things break they break
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