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Post by odzking on Jul 22, 2011 7:40:12 GMT -5
Some time ago I picked up a 3rd gen console. And for the price I was impressed (at the time) it had NO cracks anywhere. The one thing I did see is it was a bowing in the spot where it is usually broken or cracked ... next to the shifter. Well I've tried everything I can think or to straighten it out. C clamp for a couple weeks, then clamp with hair dryer, then heat gun. Didn't want to do that too much for fear of melting the plastic all together. Actually put it in the sun for a couple days during these hot days we've had. Nope! Just springs right back. Picture attached ... any ideas on how to fix this?
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DynoDave
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Post by DynoDave on Jul 22, 2011 8:44:09 GMT -5
Nope. That's an interesting problem though...as you say, 99% of them that fail crack there. I'd guess this piece is experiencing the same stresses that usually cause the crack. Just like a piece of sheetmetal that gets stretched (like the thin strip of metal between the taillamps on a '70/'71 Duster), once stretched, it's now too big for the original space. You won't get it back in a straight line without shrinking it. I know some of the methods used for shrinking metal, but have no idea how you'd do that with a piece of plastic (other than the ones you alreday tried, which did not work.) The only thing I can think to do would be to cut it with a hacksaw/model railroading track saw...the thickness of the blade removing material...then glue it back. But of course, that would defeat the purpose of having bought a non-cracked piece in the first place.
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Post by MrSnicks on Mar 7, 2013 6:32:17 GMT -5
Old thread, but I purchased one that is doing the same thing. What did you ever finally do with yours OdzKing?
Patrick
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2013 7:41:58 GMT -5
Has anyone tried drilling a hole the size of a needle in each piece, and useing a touch supper glue on the needle and inserting it? Just a thought.
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Post by odzking on Mar 7, 2013 10:17:17 GMT -5
Patrick, no I never did fix it. I just put it in the car with the idea that I will buy a new top piece one day. I have 2, one has the hump and the other broken/cracked. That I glued and it came apart again so I tried JB Weld. That so far has held but it is still on the bench so to speak. I put the bowed one in the car. The idea of the "pin" is interesting though. It would have to be quite small since there is not a lot to work with there. Thing is if it won't stick to the 2 pieces, why would it stick inside? Super glue (or supper glue!), even Gorilla Glue clearly says on the package that it won't work on certain types of plastic which this apparently is.
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brock
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Post by brock on Mar 7, 2013 19:22:04 GMT -5
Scrapping off the surface lacquer where you want to glue should do the trick.
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DynoDave
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Post by DynoDave on Mar 7, 2013 21:09:42 GMT -5
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Post by odzking on Mar 7, 2013 21:56:44 GMT -5
Ha! For $200, I can buy a new console and save lots of time.
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DynoDave
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Post by DynoDave on Mar 8, 2013 10:37:25 GMT -5
Ha! For $200, I can buy a new console and save lots of time. Yeah, you would have to own a shop, or resell a lot of repaired used parts to justify the expense. But having a metal retainer melted into the plastic sure seems like it would help with the lack of strength in that area.
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Post by MrSnicks on Mar 19, 2013 18:41:29 GMT -5
I just had another console delivered to my door sight unseen, but with the promise that I would not be disappointed... Well I wasn't disappointed. I was surprised by a couple things.
1. The locking button + key was included 2. The cable was still intact to keep the door from opening too far. 3. There is some kind of spring to helps the lid auto open.
I have NEVER seen those springs in any ebay auctions or mentioned.
Patrick
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