brock
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Post by brock on May 29, 2008 18:10:26 GMT -5
You'll see! It's actually a northeastern antique boat engine restoration trick.
Look at the last 2 pics again. (I edited out the wrong pic & replaced it with the right pic from 5 days later)
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Post by Jer on May 30, 2008 0:18:47 GMT -5
Well I'll be dipped!! #2Thumbs#.....You Go, Boy!
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brock
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Post by brock on May 31, 2008 12:43:54 GMT -5
Updated dip pic from yesterday! It's getting there!!
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brock
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Post by brock on Jun 3, 2008 18:10:27 GMT -5
Last dipped pic! Cleanup, refinish & reassembly soon!
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Post by charger440sixpac on Jun 13, 2008 13:04:17 GMT -5
Just curious if there is any adverse effect on the front from the water/molasis?
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brock
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Post by brock on Jun 13, 2008 17:08:26 GMT -5
Just curious if there is any adverse effect on the front from the water/molasis? Good question Mr sixpack! I'm moving on to phase 2 this weekend - so my first pic after clean up will be of the front. It's the lower faceplate in the pic at the start of this thread. It did have surface rust on the front - it shows up as a dull- ness in that pic. It will be interesting to see if the paint is OK or ready to fall off! The "yellowing" of the numbers was pearly white again after the first week or so. More to come!
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brock
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Post by brock on Jun 16, 2008 22:33:37 GMT -5
Backside was clearcoated. I went with the molasis to keep the metal smooth. The clearcoat gives it an aged look. Chrome paint would have been better looking. 3 or 4 days takes the yellow out of the letters BUT 3 or 4 weeks removes most of the paint. Sanding was a chore on the front. The homemade drum with 1000 grit was a pleasure on the side portion. A little flat black paint & it's ready for the sticker! Still working on the sticker though. It came with a clear overlay that popped up in 3 places & would not lay back down. So, I yanked the clear off & am in the process of getting the glue rubbed off. More pics soon.
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brock
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Post by brock on Jun 17, 2008 0:01:07 GMT -5
I just couldn't leave well enough alone. So, here it is: the restored speedo complete with a sticker for a dial.... There is still a bit of stickum to rub off the face. The clear cover of the sticker got trashed. At least this way it isn't way too shiny. I thought to use the rivets from the quartz clock kit that won't work - but they are not only a little too small: they're too short. So I used screws. Should make a fine present for my bud with a 73 Rallye! Did they have 120mph speedos?
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Roy
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Post by Roy on Jun 17, 2008 1:48:03 GMT -5
Well, I had heard of heating Vinegar (acetic acid) to remove rust but never molasses!
Brock, I just took the speedometer out of a rallye cluster if you need another to add to your collection ;D
I'm changing the gauges to Autometer Nexus. Only decision is where to mount the 2 extra that I want. Using the large openings for speedometer (electic, not mechanical) and tach. The other 4 are oil pressure, water temp, voltmeter, and fuel level. Since the rallye only has 2 small gauges, I'm undecided about: 1)adding 2 more where the radio has already been chopped up, 2) inside the ashtray (open it to see them vs mount them in place of the ashtray) or least likely 3) bottom of the dash.
Roy
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brock
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Post by brock on Jun 17, 2008 16:23:34 GMT -5
I wouldn't mind getting ahold of a 120mph speedo for the needle & to see if the induction cup is heavier or lighter. I wonder if there is a way to do an over under small gauge setup like the stock Rallye setup? Might have to do a photoshop of the adding 2 gauge openings idea of yours! Hope to see pics of how you update your gauges to the Autometers!!!
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