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Post by dtrain on Nov 18, 2013 7:11:59 GMT -5
Hi, I am going to do the same to my 73. Any tips? Looking at the angles I might run mine thru the rear foot wells to keep ground clearance as good as possible. I want to run the old girl low  Also any feed back on the torque boxes would be great. Things are hard to ship to NZ so real feed back is good. Any one else have any advice for me here? Cheers |
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,148
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Post by DynoDave on Nov 18, 2013 9:12:58 GMT -5
Welcome aboard dtrain.  If you aren't worried about authenticity, and given your shipping costs, I think I'd just make my own torque boxes if I was you. They are just a plate joining the subframes to the rockers. Study some on-line pics of factory pieces ad cut / weld away!  Any pictures of your project? |
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purplecharger
Been Here A While
collecting parts for the next one
Posts: 768
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Post by purplecharger on Nov 18, 2013 20:27:46 GMT -5
The 2x2 1/8" square tubing will not hang too low if you put it as close as possible without rubbing on the floor pans. The rocker panels will be lower.
Torque boxes are harder to fabricate but can be done.
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brock
Major Website Supporter
MEGA KILOVOLT-MASTER
Posts: 3,459
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Post by brock on Nov 20, 2013 21:02:03 GMT -5
I too like the idea of just making them myself! What I do
not like are the ideas of 'rubbing against the floor' & any
gap between this section or that section of the floorboard.
To me 'rubbing' means chassis flex. Why not weld it to the
floor as part of the install? Only the U Channel version
suggests this. The U channel has no flange to help make
the floor stronger. Worried about burning through the floor
when trying to attach 0.250 metal to 0.03ish metal: make
sheetmetal tie ins. Gaps just catch mud, gravel, etc. They
aren't going to stay clean if the car is to actually be used.
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