Interesting wiper motor problem

[class115]

I re-wired my entire 1973 Charger with a Ron Francis wiring kit. like the kit, every thingk works except for the wiper
The wiper motor worked before I installed the kit. Now it stops and starts in such a way that it would be useless in the rain.
There are 2 differences between the wiper wiring in ther RF kit and the original Mopar wiring.
One is that there was no wiper fuse in the stock 1973 set up. I guess the switch circuit breaker protected the switch/motor.
the new kit has a dedicated wiper motor fuse.
The second difference is that the Hot (pink) Mopar wiper switch power wire is a larger guage than the wiper power wire that comes on the RF kit.
The first time I used it blew the the 15 amp wiper fuse. I replaced it with a 25 amp fuse (again moapr didnt fuse the switch at all).
Now it runs for one sweep and then stops for 15-30 sec ans sweeps once only to stop again for 15-30 sec.
The only differences are the wiper fuse and the fact that I have a 14-16 gauge wire feeing the old 18-20 guage hot wire.
Is the gauge jump fro 12 to 18 confusing the circuit breaker?

[odzking]

That is a good one. I'd be interested to see what you come up with.
You may try www.passion4mopars.com/. Kim may be able to answer your questions, she is an expert on these.

[DynoDave]

Mar 15, 2014 21:30:22 GMT -5 class115 said:

I guess the switch circuit breaker protected the switch/motor.
the new kit has a dedicated wiper motor fuse.

So our factory wiper switches have an integral circuit breaker? That's good to know.

What you are describing certainly sounds like a breaker opening and closing. If the RF wiring and fuse are BEFORE the breaker, and you can prove via test light/meter that the breaker is opening and closing, then I think you can rule out the RF wire and fuse. It's getting plenty of current....enough to open the breaker.

If so, is it a bad breaker, or a motor that's gone bad, and is drawing too many amps? The breaker should have an amp rating, and a quick check with an inductive pickup meter can tell you how many amps that motor is pulling.

[class115]

I also used an aftermarket bezel to use my new 6-guage cluster. The bezel has no metal back like the factory one to mount the wiper switch. Its just mounted to the plastic, so I suspect the swich needs to be grounded!
(got the idea from Kim' s website)
I'll let you know

[DynoDave]

Hmmm...interesting. But if there is no ground where one is needed, wouldn't you think it would not work at all, rather than in pulses? I look forward to reading what you find out.

[p4mopars]

I think we touched base on this one. Second person I've encountered with problems with the wiper motor and a Ron Francis wiring kit. Can you bench test the motor and see if it functions properly?

www.passion4mopars.com/How-To-Bench-Test-A-3-Speed-Mopar-Wiper-Motor-Incl-Leece-NevilleGeneral-Industries-Motors_b_4.html

then test the connections at the bulkhead connector with the wiper motor unplugged.

With power being applied to the wiper switch in the off position should show a voltage reading between position 5 (blue) and battery ground of 12 volts.

With the switch in either low, medium or high, should show a voltage reading between position 1 (brown w/ white tracer) and battery ground of 12 volts.

With the switch in either low, medium or high, should show a voltage reading between position 2 (red) and battery ground of 12 volts.

If any of these voltages are not present, it could be miss-wiring, corrosion on the terminals, an open between the switch and bulkhead (cut wire).

You can try a continuity test between the bulkhead connector and the wiper socket.

Bulkhead position 1 (brown w/ white tracer) to the socket slot A.
Bulkhead position 2 (red) to the socket slot F1.
Bulkhead position 5 (blue) to the socket slot P.
Bulkhead position 6 (dark green) to the socket slot F2
Bulkhead position 18 (brown) to socket slot W

Socket slot B (pink) is 12 volt power in.

See if this helps. Let me know.

[class115]

Hi all.
Bottom line up front. The switch was not grounded.
As soon as I made a temporary jumper ground, the wipers "parked".
None of the schematics I have show the wiper switch ground although they do show that the door jamb switches are grounded.
So be aware, if if you paint your dash that the switch ground path is ...
wiper switch to the metal instrument cluster back to the metal dash via the cluster atachment screw.
Now,I used an all plastic dash bezel with no ground path fron the switch to to the metal dash. But be aware that it is also possible that this could happen if you paint your dash and you don't remove paint from the cluster mount screw holes or clips (I painted the clips on the dash)
Thanks again for sharing all of your expertise!
Vic

[DynoDave]

Thanks for letting us know what the solution was, Vic!

[Nacho-RT74]

mmm as I told you on DC.com

[class115]

Nacho,
Yes I only solved with the help of you all.
Hopefully my story will help someone else.

Vic