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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Jul 24, 2015 14:05:09 GMT -5
Can anybody show me how looks a 73/74 underneath the floor ? my car is thousands of miles from home. I'm seriouslly thinking on install frame rail connectors, but I KNOW T bars crossmember is in the middle. Being an isolated system would make a hard stuff to add, but would like to see it on pics to think on something to design.
I'd like to fit something like the regular MP connectors, nothing fancy with floor contour and welding job, just regular square bars.
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Post by odzking on Jul 24, 2015 14:14:15 GMT -5
  Best I got my friend |
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Jul 24, 2015 21:34:35 GMT -5
well actually looks to be easier than I expected... front rails are way appart from the isolation asembly! I guess should meet the front rails with rear rails throught the connectors
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,169
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Post by DynoDave on Jul 25, 2015 9:26:17 GMT -5
It's certainly doable. Here's a photo from the short lived Cordoba Club USA newsletter that I did, featuring information on subframe connectors, and how one member installed them on a '78/'79 Magnum. This is the passenger side, front of the car to your right as viewing the photo.  Hmmm...been posting photos on this site for a lot of years, and at the moment, it's not working. Hopefully it shows up at some point. If not, I'll try to fix it later. |
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Jul 28, 2015 9:23:39 GMT -5
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,169
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Post by DynoDave on Jul 28, 2015 9:59:12 GMT -5
$%&at!(&^!*&^%$~!!!!
I see the problem now. And I'll NEVER be able to fix it. Why? Because the code on this site is automatically changing the end of the photo tag from from xxxxxxl-m-k, to xxxxxxx let me know. I can't fix that...not even manually.
I'll try re-saving the image, and hopefully get a file name that doesn't get auto-corrected here.
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,169
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Post by DynoDave on Jul 28, 2015 10:03:10 GMT -5
Fixed with new link that won't get auto-changed.
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Jul 28, 2015 17:04:27 GMT -5
interesting! never though on L shaped connector to be weld like that. don't know If I'd go that way, since reduces clearence with floor ( just like it had headers ). But, so far so good I can see is doable. Maybe would need to be installed some diagonally, not straight from the rear frame rails.
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purplecharger
Been Here A While
collecting parts for the next one
Posts: 768
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Post by purplecharger on Jul 28, 2015 21:24:06 GMT -5
Nacho like a cage unit put in a car The line of transferring the force must be in a line from one point to the next to gain the strength.
Some people believe you get the same strengths from two bolts vs. welding. I do not believe this at all being a former certified welder. You have to realize that a MIG weld at it's best is 80% as strong a a arc weld too but try welding on tin is hard but can be done.
If you look at a well done cage you will understand what I am trying to convey here.
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Post by 1ol74charger4me on Jul 29, 2015 23:06:56 GMT -5
Some people believe you get the same strengths from two bolts vs. welding. I do not believe this at all being a former certified welder. You have to realize that a MIG weld at it's best is 80% as strong a a arc weld too but try welding on tin is hard but can be done.
Just trying to learn here, but are you saying a mig weld is only 80% as strong as 2 bolts or a arc weld? In my world this changes daily so I'm interested in your perspective. One year the standard is to glue bonds, next year they say rivet and glue, next year they say spot weld only, next year they say bolt every 3 inches and so on.
My experience with subframe connectors is that they work. I once installed a set in a 67 Rustang and you could jack up one wheel and get 3 off the ground. Made a big difference. I ran 2x3 1/8" wall tubing from the end of the front frame rail to the rear subframe, piecut the ends to taper it and leave less surface area to contact road objects and welded them solid on the ends and to the floor pans wherever they contacted the pan. Worst part is they are a lot of work to remove and welding on your back will make for a hot time. Usual problems include rerouting fuel and brake lines, modifications to e brake, exhaust issues, road clearance and appearance issues like being seen from the side. On a Mopar, you have to allow for torsion bar removal so "line of sight" issues to the rear are probably going to be a issue. Looking at the 74 I would probably go with a 2x3 1/8" wall tubing laid on the side, cap that with a 3/16" thick 2x3 flat stock leaving enough length to install 2) 1/2" bolts through the front channel and make some sort of attachment point at the rear to the rear channel. Before the final bolt in, I would grind the surfaces and use panel bond adhesive before putting the bolts in. This would be strong enough for me and reversible.
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. If you find it!
