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Post by brbluesman on Mar 9, 2017 15:35:12 GMT -5
Ok. I've been through 3 used harnesses. And I know, I should get a brand new one, but this last one I have is in excellent condition. Only one problem - My 74 Charger SE had two previous harnesses with the seatbelt interlock system. This new harness doesn't. I had been having electrical problems like gauges not working properly and instrument lights not working. So I removed the entire dash. After rebuilding my dash frame and adding a new pad I installed it back in the car with the "newest" harness. Everything works fine EXCEPT, now the car doesn't start. In the Run position, it engages the starter and in the Start position it's dead. I installed a new ignition switch with pigtail and the wires match up according to the color codes. Nothing has been changed in the engine compartment, only the harness from the firewall back.I also installed a new voltage limiter. I'm at a standstill with what else to check. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Mar 9, 2017 17:30:45 GMT -5
Ok! CHECK the new harness matches with engine bay harnesses disposition. I guess you got some 72/73 harness which gets several wires turned around with your 74. Even between forward lighting harness and engine harness
NEED TO NOTE!
74 engine harness got 2 yellow wires. One runs to interlock reset button, and the other runs straight to starter relay. Making the story short, need to match the NON INTERLOCKED underdash harness yellow wire with the yellow wire running to starter relay. The other one will be obvioused and left empty on bulkhead at firewall.
Need to note you won't have any buzzer system working on your car like previously it was, ALTHOUGHT, can be made with some job on them
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Post by brbluesman on Mar 9, 2017 18:53:51 GMT -5
Thanks, Nacho ! I'll definitely check that out. I think I looked at everything else today. Even pulled the steering wheel to check the switch. I had a spare ignition switch with pigtale and it gave the same results as the one installed. So I'll definitely be checking the bulkhead connections in the morning. One question, if I find that a few wires are swapped, what's the easiest way to swap them to the correct positions ? Do they pull out of the bulkhead ?
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Mar 9, 2017 21:11:40 GMT -5
You can either match on engine harnesses or bulkhead.
I think is easier in bulkead since they are not taped tight on cab side, like they are on engine side... plus you can get diff wires mixed between BOTH engine harnesses ( engine itself and lighting ) so untape from one to the other could be harder. Cab side are all together.
Female terminals got a tab will need to be pressed in from the front, being pulled out from the back after that. Then to relocate the terminal, need to bend out back the terminal tab, enough to keep in place the terminal once installed back
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Mar 9, 2017 21:17:08 GMT -5
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Post by brbluesman on Mar 10, 2017 19:27:56 GMT -5
Nacho, you da MAN ! I compared the old and "new" harness and the solid yellow wire was in # 20 on the old. On the new #20 had a blue wire in it. I removed the blue and inserted the yellow and it fired up like normal ! Just one problem left. My wipers aren't working. I may have contributed to that though. On the old harness #4 was empty (not used). On the new it had 2 dark green wires in #4. I unplugged the green wires. So are the wipers not working because of the green wires or the blue that's disconnected ? Also, the horn isn't working either. So is this all related or is it another wire swap that needs to be done ?
Man, I can't thank you enough for your help because I was at a lose after working on it for days. You really know your stuff !
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Post by brbluesman on Mar 12, 2017 12:58:24 GMT -5
UPDATE - I THOUGHT I had it all right !  After I put everything back together, I go to start it and the motor turns over but when I go to run it kills ! I know there's a hot wire that keeps it going in run but which one ? As I posted yesterday, I swapped the yellow to # 20 and it turns over in START, but which wire is the one to keep it running ? |
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Post by brbluesman on Mar 13, 2017 20:03:20 GMT -5
Changed the brown wire that was in 19 to 9 where the yellow wire was. Now the car starts and runs like normal except I have to hit the interlock reset button every time before it will crank. Is there a way to bypass the interlock reset ?
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Mar 13, 2017 20:30:40 GMT -5
Replied you PM
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Mar 13, 2017 20:37:55 GMT -5
Need to match EVERY WIRE... several wires got turned around between 72 73 and 74.
74s got the starter relay wires on engine harnesses due the interlock ( and they are 2 whereas earliers was just one ), BUT earliers were on headlight harnesses. This took SEVERAL wires turned around. Brake prop switch wire, wiper washer wire... some others too as you noticed.
Since 74s got two cranking wires, one for the reset button and the other to the relay, needs to be matched with the one to the relay. Of curse you found the one running to reset button... , match it with the other one.
Thick brown and blue wires are the ign circuits, one in START the other in RUN... of course match those correctly too
BE SURE EVERYONE IS MATCHED between both sides of firewall. You even can get a short if not, since some wires drives ground ( senders, prop valve switch... )
Wiper motor harness never changed, not even between 2 or 3 speeds... that's weird!
Another changes were the blower ( green ) and compressor clutch ( blue ) wires. 74s got them out of the bulkhead, while earliers got them splitted between tranny harness and engine harness, or even both on tranny harness on 71s
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After I put everything back together, I go to start it and the motor turns over but when I go to run it kills ! I know there's a hot wire that keeps it going in run but which one ? As I posted yesterday, I swapped the yellow to # 20 and it turns over in START, but which wire is the one to keep it running ?