setauketjeff
Settling In
1971 440 MGM Every stoplight is a staging light!
Posts: 230
|
Post by setauketjeff on Jun 28, 2017 14:42:54 GMT -5
I'm going to be rebuilding my column too. Have all the parts that I need to replace that I know of: NOS MoPar 1971-1973 Plymouth Dodge with three spoke steering wheel HORN SWITCH ( 270674395694 ) as only one of the three buttons works intermittently; NEW 1966-74 Mopar Steering Couple Rebuild Kit( 162250500836 )the one on the car is loose; Mopar Charger Satellite Ignition Door Lock 1970 1971 ( 311825167120 ) When I got the car it only came with the ignition key. Have since installed the two door cylinders so I can lock the car, looking forward to changing the ignition lock so we're all keyed the same (also got NOS keys); Directional Cam as my right directional will not stay on with holding lever in place. Going to replace the backup switch but not until I pull the old broken one to check the part number. Have any other suggestions for things to check for? Find any good documentation for disassembly / reassembly other than Haynes and 71 Body and Chassis manuals? Thanks! Your horn issue, It can only be one of three things: 1)one of the three contacts are closed/pinched 2)the wires wires running down the column are grounded or pinched 3)somehow the procedure ruined your horn relay under the dash - unlikely). Please let me know how your rebuild goes and let me know of any issues and ore tricks you figured out. Thanks SetauketJeff
|
|
|
Post by brigond on Jun 28, 2017 21:22:07 GMT -5
I'm going to be rebuilding my column too. Have all the parts that I need to replace that I know of: NOS MoPar 1971-1973 Plymouth Dodge with three spoke steering wheel HORN SWITCH ( 270674395694 ) as only one of the three buttons works intermittently; NEW 1966-74 Mopar Steering Couple Rebuild Kit( 162250500836 )the one on the car is loose; Mopar Charger Satellite Ignition Door Lock 1970 1971 ( 311825167120 ) When I got the car it only came with the ignition key. Have since installed the two door cylinders so I can lock the car, looking forward to changing the ignition lock so we're all keyed the same (also got NOS keys); Directional Cam as my right directional will not stay on with holding lever in place. Going to replace the backup switch but not until I pull the old broken one to check the part number. Have any other suggestions for things to check for? Find any good documentation for disassembly / reassembly other than Haynes and 71 Body and Chassis manuals? Thanks! Your horn issue, It can only be one of three things: 1)one of the three contacts are closed/pinched 2)the wires wires running down the column are grounded or pinched 3)somehow the procedure ruined your horn relay under the dash - unlikely). Please let me know how your rebuild goes and let me know of any issues and ore tricks you figured out. Thanks SetauketJeff I did not have replace the first three parts that you posted above. Replaced the ignition switch, Turnsignal switch and steering wheel bearing. There are two (youtube) videos that will come up if you search for Mopar ignition switch replacement. These videos helped with disassembly. I also have a bunch of still picture that I took while disassembling the column. I did "not"post all of them on this thread. When and if you need them , I will send them to you. These three parts that I replaced cured (four) problems mentioned in the thread above.
|
|
|
Post by 72RoadRunnerGTX on Oct 11, 2021 23:23:42 GMT -5
The thin black wire (thanks again Nacho) must be removed from the new harness. (Not used) . The thin black wire position is empty (no wire ) on the old ignition switch harness. This empty position matchesup to an orange wire in the cars male end plug. I guess it may be a bad thing to connect the thin black wire (new harness) to the orange wire (cars harness) I realize this an old thread but didn’t see where the answer to the function of the small gauge black wire on some replacement ignition switches was posted. That later ignition switch replacement was designed to also include some C-body applications. It functions as a bulb check for the brake warning lamp. It goes to ground while cranking only. On some C-bodies, the corresponding pin location on the dash side Molex is wired into the switched negative/switched side of the warning light system (black wire coding). Other models use this same Molex pin location for the auto column shift gear select back light, (orange, dash illumination). If this switch is used without removing the small black wire on a car with the orange wire on the dash side, first the time car is started with the lights on, it will blow the dash illumination fuse. For an auto column shift car, the small black is removed and replaced with the lead from the gear selector lamp.
|
|
|
Post by Nacho-RT74 on Oct 12, 2021 2:51:40 GMT -5
Wow, you are around here! Welcome!
Yes, the black wire function being a ground while cranking used on some C bodies to some circuit trigger while cranking was a later learning for me. Of course factory units didn't got that on A, B and E bodies because matches the shifter light provision, hence these ones were diff PN for each aplication.
As you mentioned If this wire is not removed and you crank the engine with lights on, will short out to blow the dimmer light fuse circuit or either the parking lights circuit fuse ( it should blow the dimmer light fuse since is 5 amps vs 20 of the other one ). I mentioned that could be a posibility OR if being and extra acc source like laters switches getting two acc sources, could keep lights ON. Sure when I was unsure of the kind of signal it handled.
|
|
DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,150
|
Post by DynoDave on Oct 12, 2021 5:28:30 GMT -5
Good to know guys. Thanks for the update. And welcome aboard 74RoadRunnerGTX.
|
|
|
Post by brigond on Oct 13, 2021 12:30:19 GMT -5
Yes , thanks for the information ! I can't believe it's 4 years since this post. Everything is functioning well after the replacement
|
|