quapmaster
Settling In
I have more quap than you.
Posts: 135
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Post by quapmaster on Jun 6, 2017 11:54:06 GMT -5
I've never seen insulation like that on the nub, no.
Does the horn self-honk with the switch disconnected? I'm still thinking it's the switch.
The newer t/s switches just have a spring-loaded cylindrical contact, no rolly thing.
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Post by brigond on Jun 6, 2017 16:24:41 GMT -5
Here is a picture of the new and old ignition switch harness. Hopefully someone that will be changing their ignition switch will find this thread and picture while searching the Internet. 2 red wires have to be removed and reused in the new harness. Electrical Guru "Nacho" says it for the key switch buzzer. The other end (switch) goes near the key lock held on by 2 screws seen in previous pictures. The thin black wire (thanks again Nacho) must be removed from the new harness. (Not used) . The thin black wire position is empty (no wire ) on the old ignition switch harness. This empty position matchesup to an orange wire in the cars male end plug. I guess it may be a bad thing to connect the thin black wire (new harness) to the orange wire (cars harness) I think im gonna bring both old and new harness to a local car stereo shop to have them neatly remove the 2 red and 1 black wire from the plugs.
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Post by brigond on Jun 6, 2017 16:46:37 GMT -5
Forgot to add the longer red and black wires (new harness ) will get pushed in to the empty holes of its own harness . Matching red to red and black to black. In other applications those two red and black wires connect into a separate plug. Thanks again Nacho.
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Tom
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Itching to get back to posting!
Posts: 737
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Post by Tom on Jun 6, 2017 20:15:40 GMT -5
OK, I have a new theory. One or more of your switches is constantly contacting (this is relatively common) and the electrical conductivity between the contact wheel and ring is iffy, so when you turn the steering wheel, it improves the electrical flow, thus completing the circuit. Do you have another wheel to try? Maybe someone here on the board has an extra switch assembly for cheap? One could do the "North Carolina test" and drive the car around the block with a pair of vice grips instead of steering wheel, to confirm that. Come to think of it....I may have learned that in GA.
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Post by brigond on Jun 7, 2017 17:51:02 GMT -5
I've never seen insulation like that on the nub, no. Does the horn self-honk with the switch disconnected? I'm still thinking it's the switch. The newer t/s switches just have a spring-loaded cylindrical contact, no rolly thing. I dont know. I guess I can try when its back together again.. waiting for the new turn signal harness.
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Jun 7, 2017 18:55:48 GMT -5
Honestly that ign switch looks to be in perfect conditions
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Jun 7, 2017 19:00:56 GMT -5
As you know from the thread that im changing the ignition switch harness. I recently decided to order a whole new turn signal harness as well. Since the turn signal cam is broken, its only $43 shipped and all the work it took to get to this point. Only the new turn signal harness doesn't include a new contact wheel. Guess il have to see what happens. Does aanyone know if the nub sticking up on the back of the steering wheel is supposed to have a rubberized/insulated coating like in my picture above? Im thinking someone was trying to solve the horn issue before me. That nub is the canceling lever for the turning switch canceling cam... shouldn't be "rubberized"
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Post by brigond on Jun 7, 2017 20:54:27 GMT -5
Honestly that ign switch looks to be in perfect conditions Yes, it does look to be in good shape. Im hoping this will do the trick though. If not, the gain to this will be some experience digging into a mopar column, ruling out the switch and sharing the experience. But Im hoping to have my cake and eat it too
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Post by brigond on Jun 9, 2017 21:21:47 GMT -5
The new turn (signal harness) has arrived. Approximately $43 through Amazon, from a seller called "Vans". If the horn issue has to do with the (wheel on a spring ) thingy then this should do it. This harness doesn't have a wheel and spring. It has a flat brass type peg instead. See the picture of the new harness. Glad I ordered a new one . It would have been silly not to do so with the work it took to get to this point. Second picture...... The new (ignition switch) harness all ready to go. I went to a stereo installer and he had the tool to remove the thin black wire and the 2 thin red wires. He charged $10. I did try to make my own tool from a spent 22 lr case but it wasn't working well. The brass was a little soft.
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Tom
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Itching to get back to posting!
Posts: 737
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Post by Tom on Jun 9, 2017 23:11:43 GMT -5
Going to warn you now..... Your turn signal lever won't fit the replacement switch. Like virtually all reproduction parts for our cars....it is not made correctly. You are going to have to fit it (cut new switch) with a dremel or cutting wheel.
There is a little "tit" on the T/S lever that is supposed to engage the switch. The "notch" on the replacement switch is inadequate for the tit.
Doing the fitting work off the car is going to be a lot easier.
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