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Post by crazybillnavy on Aug 10, 2017 17:20:52 GMT -5
When I got my 74 the windshield was already pulled out, so I am not sure how it goes back in. I could not find a seal kit that goes around the frame and then use the string trick to pop in the glass. Is there a different way these are installed? Also I could not find the trim to go around the window if it was supposed to have one. Anyone have any insight to how a 74 install should be?
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Aug 10, 2017 21:54:11 GMT -5
3rd gen chargers don't use a rubber weatherstrip on front and rear glases, but the window ribbon sealer. They also need to get couple of rubber blocks to keep the position on bottom, where the glass rest.  After the ribbon and glass are installed a window sealer filler is applied on channel ( can't find pic of the product, similar to the black silicone but doesn't dry really ) Can be used Urethane too ( I did it last time ) which is what modern cars uses, and infact is less abrasive to the metal than the old school ribbon sealer. |
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Post by crazybillnavy on Aug 12, 2017 17:38:54 GMT -5
It looks like there is a chrome window trim that goes around the glass. Do you glue down the chrome with the filler?
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Post by e5charger on Aug 12, 2017 22:19:58 GMT -5
No, they are held in place by clips like these. They slide on screws that should be around your window opening. If they aren't there you can buy those also. Check ebay, you might even find the trim pieces. By the way, they are stainless not chrome.  |
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Aug 12, 2017 22:50:56 GMT -5
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Aug 12, 2017 22:52:21 GMT -5
By the way, they are stainless not chrome. Stainless steel up to 73, anodized aluminium on 74 ( I preffer stainless and installed stainless on my 74 ) |
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Post by CDN72SE on Aug 24, 2017 9:57:32 GMT -5
Glad this topic popped up, have some questions myself. My car is still in the shop but I don't remember any clips holding my trim in place just this goopy butyl stuff and my trim just seemed to be stuck to it. I did have the green reveal clips on the rear window but they just seemed to be floating. I don't remember seeing any screws or holes around the windows. Anything could have happened before I owned the car. Should I be drilling holes for clips and screws?  |
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Aug 24, 2017 10:18:45 GMT -5
Who knows what happened there. The fact is rivets are originally welded to the body ( except for the lower and corners in front ). Quite often you can find some extra screws holding these clips. If you can't restore or reinstall the original welded rivets, there are screws "looks a like" those rivets easy to fit. I preffer welded ones thought because open holes for screws are allways a leak probability.  These rivets are another option  |
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Post by CDN72SE on Aug 24, 2017 14:00:13 GMT -5
Oh that's right Nacho, you jogged my memory I believe that there are some welded on rivets. It's been so long I have forgotten. Thanks for the response and info.
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Post by robertsrt on Aug 27, 2017 2:17:05 GMT -5
The front / rear glass install can be quite technical, although it doesn't hafta be. I read a lot when I was researching mine. I did a front and back window in/out to repair some rust on the window channels. Some pitting, and very small holes were letting water into the trunk, for instance. I had the glass guy take the glass out, I repaired the damage with epoxy putty and POR-15, cleaned the glass with a razor and steel wool then had the glass guy come over and re-install it.
One welded pin in the channel was gone and a short screw was installed in its place. The glass guy say they see this on old cars once in a while. Just pay attention to use lots of urethane sealer around it. I took mine out and dabbed it in sealer and re-installed it. The glass guy also had a great tip about my new clips. They are very stiff when new. BUT this can cause installing the window trim to be a lot more difficult. So once they're installed, bend them back, flexing them and loosening them up a bit so they're not so 'new'. Works great - good tip. One more thing, my pins were not evenly spaced around the window channel at all. The factory workers welded them on wherever they thought they were needed. Mine looked like it had an extra up top, but whatever, just an observation.
The articles I read got into good arguments over what technique to use when re-installing glass in old cars. Some wanted to glue it in as the factory did - more on that later. Others said butyl tape was OK. And then others reminded everyone that the tape was only bonding onto the surface of whatever paint you used in the window channel, if it was a paint job you were doing that required the glass to be removed. Good points. I used POR-15 and used the butyl tape method and then back-filled the channel with urethane as Nacho described. I then re-painted the channel AFTER. I feel that's a very good bond and it shouldn't leak. You need to be careful of the installed height. The proper thickness of tape needs to be used. Too thin and the trim will sit up from the level of the glass and look goofy. Too thick and you can't get the trim on. Remember the factory did not do it this way. And I used the rubber spacers on the lower edge as well. These DO come from the factory cars. Mine were in OK but not great condition. My glass guy didn't know he had to use them. Not everyone knows everything I guess! When the glass on the butyl tape gets hot, it will definitely move, and slide down the channel and come to rest. The butyl tape won't hold it. Then you probably have a leak (gap at the top?).
The factory used a sticky rope seal, 1/2" inside of the window, applied as the glass is upside-down on a bench. They then fill around the edge, next to the rope, using a triangular cross-section of glue from Thiokol, the same manufacturer that made rocket fuel for the space program. The car is all painted, ready to go, but the factory paint bond to the channel is very good - the original bond is as good as it gets. Then workers pick up the glass with suction-cups and place the window into the channel, and the spacers keep it from falling. Its now a leak free seal, and the glue can't run into the pass. compt. because the rope seal acts as a dam.
As far as I can tell, this is how it was done. So its very difficult to re-create it as a hobbyist. But some still argue that you need to 'glue in' the glass. So, some folks will use a urethane glue and 'glue' it in. But you can't get Thiokol glue, and if the rope seal or some other dam isn't used, you can easily get urethane running into where you don't want it. They say the glass acts as part of the integrity of the body in case of collision and so forth. In modern cars this is absolutely true. A good glass guy knows to never use butyl tape on a newer car. There's proper kits that need to be used, and regulations about how and when to properly install newer glass. But for old cars I guess we get a pass. He said he's done hundreds of hot rods of all kinds and they all are butyl-taped in. And his jobs look great.
But make sure your paint bond to the window channel is good! Otherwise you open your drivers window to get some fresh air and your back window sails out onto the road behind you and smashes. A friend of mine had this happen!!
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