setauketjeff
Settling In
1971 440 MGM Every stoplight is a staging light!
Posts: 230
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Post by setauketjeff on Dec 4, 2017 21:39:02 GMT -5
Nacho, I found an old post of yours on another site. I quick demo on changing your rear seal. Most of the time on 440s. it's the oil sender, or oil line from the sender on mechanical gauges that are leaking down the rear of the engine, and give the appearance of a rear main leak.
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Dec 5, 2017 8:10:29 GMT -5
Nacho, that's why I'm scratching my head. I'll have to check, but I don't think that I have the key in buzzer option. My other 1971 SE did (had full lights and buzzer package). The super bee doesn't even have door light switches, this is virtually a stripped down race car. The dome light is manual by twisting the headlight/dimmer switch. And I'm fairly sure that I pulled the correct relay too. I tested it by pressing the horn and heard/felt it flip. Will take pics tomorrow to post here. well, the key in buzzer and door jam switches were part of any basic car. Diff stuff if they were stripped down AFTER they leave the dealer, but factory all they got it. I haven't found any car without door jam switches not even on 60s cars the Horn relay is this ( 71/73 ), where the offset prong is the one what gets the key in buzzer switch signal and the switch installed on column is this... the ign switch plug gets these two red wires, then become black into the dash harness
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Dec 5, 2017 8:12:11 GMT -5
Nacho, I found an old post of yours on another site. I quick demo on changing your rear seal. Most of the time on 440s. it's the oil sender, or oil line from the sender on mechanical gauges that are leaking down the rear of the engine, and give the appearance of a rear main leak. in my case was the rear seal, either the crank or the side seals... since I replaced everything when I built the engine never told which it was, and got stopped the leak anyway
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setauketjeff
Settling In
1971 440 MGM Every stoplight is a staging light!
Posts: 230
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Post by setauketjeff on Dec 5, 2017 14:02:07 GMT -5
Nacho, thanks for the info and pics. I can add the two door switches (poppers), I can see where they were. Where would I hook them to so that they turn on the dome light and activate the keys in ignition buzzer? The buzzer works for when the lights are left on and the keys removed.
Test procedure for where my short is: Can I pull the relay and test across the prongs in the fuse box to determine if one of the three horn switches are shorted? I.E. see continuity? Same goes for testing the relay itself.
Jeff
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setauketjeff
Settling In
1971 440 MGM Every stoplight is a staging light!
Posts: 230
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Post by setauketjeff on Dec 5, 2017 14:33:45 GMT -5
Tried to upload 800k pic. No more room here
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Dec 5, 2017 15:29:28 GMT -5
door switches: for 71 driver side got a 3 pins kind ( not easy to find and expensive if you do ), where two of the pins got yellow wire as far I recall and one black. The two yellows sources ( as far I recall ) one straight to dome light linked to the passenger side yellow wire, the other one is linked to the passenger side and gets a mold in the middle to feed the map light and seatbelt light if equipped. the balck one feedsthe ign switch key sensor. When door is open, this ground reachs that key in sensor. If key is IN, then the ground keeps running to the horn buzzer so then will buzz. If key is not there, then that ground is cut there and buzzer won't buzz. This makes just will buzz with driver side signal to remind to driver the key is in.
for passenger side, it should get a single or dual straight prong, where just one of them is connected to the yellow wire ( as previouslly mentioned ) to feed the dome light... OR SOPMETHING LIKE THAT ( I can't recall why the 71 driver side gets two diff pins for the yellow source and I'm lazy right now to check the diagram LOL ) 72 and lates gets both sides dual prong switches, and both yellow wires are spliced into just one terminal, while the black wire is still alone on that side
Horn relay and cavity test
you should get 3 wires on back of fuse box where the relay plugs in.
Black from turning switch
Violet from fuse box
Green traced red to horns
Violet is positive from batt, so should be hot allways
Green traced is positive to horns but is hot JUST when the ground signal comes from turning switch harness when pressing horn button. This is the trigger to the relay to feed the horns from the violet wire
so:
black wire shouldn't be grounded EXCEPT if pressing hron button. You can check for ground continuity between that black wire and anywhere to the chassis. If you get continuity, the wire or switch into the steering wheel is shorted/damaged
Violet and green wires doesn't have to be linked until the black wire is grounded from horns switch. IF horn switch wire is working correctly and STILL green wire keeps sourced ( obviuslly from Violet wire ) the relay can be very well damaged/shorted
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setauketjeff
Settling In
1971 440 MGM Every stoplight is a staging light!
Posts: 230
|
Post by setauketjeff on Dec 5, 2017 18:08:51 GMT -5
Nacho, thanks again. I have both the 1971 Dodge Service & Repair Manuals on CD and can double check the diagrams there.
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