I see! Those columns have a lot of difference. My parents' 71 when we were kids had the later column, too. I remember the filler plug in their car.
The AC high side runs to the driver side on mine. Getting a different bracket was just a thought. I suspect the better thing to do is get the Sanden compressor.
When I first got the car, my daughter looked inside and said, "Wow, Dad! That's a lot of blue!"
71 Dodge Charger SE 383 4bbl Auto Slap Stick 77 Ford F-150 Ranger XLT Supercab 351M "3 on the tree" 78 Ford F-350 Custom Dually Flatbed 300-6cyl NP435 Tranny 79 Ford F-100 Custom Shortbed 300-6cyl T170 Manual OD 2020 Challenger R/T Scat Pack 392 8-Spd Auto F8 Green
"Every 20 minute job is just ONE broken bolt away from becoming a three day ordeal!"
I will have to take a look at my setup on the hazard switch as mine is a Nov build car. Never paid attention. Now wondering if I should stock pile a switch just in case. I probably should replace my headlight switch cause the dimmer reostat doesn't work well.
You could try removing the headlight switch and spraying something in there like DeoxIT Gold in the rheostat . I think that would help some. I use that on my vintage television restorations... works wonders on the convergence controls in the back of the set. Since those controls only get turned at the factory, and then later if the set gets serviced, they kinda get in bad shape after 60 years of sitting still. This stuff really cleans and lubes them up nicely.
You can find it in many electronics parts stores. I just recently sprayed some in my Charger's radio pots... sure made a difference.
Thanks for the tip! My rheostat (I knew there was a letter missing in there) is so bad I only get dash lights with it in one spot. I rarely drive at night so not a big problem. Can I get the headlight switch out w/o removing the cluster? Will have to get the FSM out and do some studying. Yeah, front ac line runs to the driver's side on '71. Seems like you could somehow attach a basic v pulley to the bracket. I use to work in the small engine, lawnmower, outdoor power equipment industry and there are numerous pulleys available for a 1/2" belt. Some with a hub/shoulder on one side that would hold it off the bracket. I've got a book with various sizes if you want me to look for one. Just get me the diameter and how far it sits off the bracket. My car is not at my location yet this year.
Last Edit: Mar 26, 2020 19:35:50 GMT -5 by 71se3834v
Post by Nacho-RT74 on Mar 28, 2020 17:13:56 GMT -5
sorry, forgott about get it back to respond
yes... headlight switch can be replaced with cluster in place. Need to pull out the knob with shaft while pressing the release button... its a bit tricky!
then you'll gett access to the "nut" which needs to be removed.
There are sockets which makes this nut removan and install easier, but actually I never have needed
on all this process you can keep the plug conected and unplug it last... and plug it first when reinstalling. The harness is long enough to make it comfortablly lower than its original location down the dash
with a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
I changed my turn signal switch harness along with my ignition switch harness. I posted about an ignition switch change in the electrical section of the forum. There are a bunch of pictures and great help from the guys here. It's a sticky titled somethng like ignition switch change. If I find it I'll post the link. It may help you with the replacement. There is also an issue with the new switches you may encounter. Tom mentioned the turn signal arm doesn't alway fit in to the switch and needs to be fround down. (The switch needs grinding). I have pics of how I grinded and where to grind the switch, in the thread. Wondering if Tom still on the forum?
Mopars are like my matchbox / Hot wheel cars from when I was a kid ......Bad Arse and cool .
My other hobby is practicing the ancient art of Click ! Pow !
I knew how the knob removed, I was more concerned with if I could get my hand under there to remove the wire harness and switch. I have trouble with my hands in tight spaces. After my Ram wiring repair my hand pain (arthritis) kept me up the night after.
I was able to do it, but maybe that's more a personal issue. It's doable though. Sure is tight and heater-AC control is in the middle disturbing on the process.
Yes Tom is still member and Admin, but being a bit tired of the car stuff now is dedicated to fishing LOL
Last Edit: Apr 16, 2020 4:53:20 GMT -5 by Nacho-RT74
with a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela