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Post by Nacho-RT74 on May 26, 2020 7:17:21 GMT -5
Before dissasemble my car for the full body and paint job I was getting also some water on passenger side, getting my carpet all wet on that side. But since I was to dissasemble my car didn't pay attention on that moment. Something I will take care when reassembling. I didn't actually made a rebuilt job on the box, but I refreshed what I could before I put my A/C operational with R134, including the sealer used between both half cases of A/C box on bottom.
When dissasembling, we found the drain outlet nipple cracked enough to get broken trying to remove the hose, just right at the box edge, so MAYBE that was the reason to get my carpet wet
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Post by azmoparboy on May 28, 2020 10:18:22 GMT -5
AC system restoration
Hi,
I am new to your website but not new to the Chrysler AC system. I have a 1973 Dodge Charger and it is a factor AC car. I’ve owned the charger for well over 12 years and had restored it completely. Early on I had made an attempt to convert the car to R134 coolant. It just didn’t make really cool air as I had desired and the coolant had escaped from the system so I allowed the system to go dormant for sometime.
Last fall I Restored the AC system.
I would check to see if the heater valve hoses are routed correctly, I had mine connected wrong, the valve will allow just a little water to pass into the heater core and warm the air just a little, my valve did that.
For the compressor I rebuilt it completely. I found some of the parts I needed on eBay and the shaft seal from auto zone. I reassembled the compressor and installed Esther 100 oil which is compatible to the R 12 and the R134 coolant. I did lots of reading about the EPR valve that’s in the compressor. From what I gather, this valve is the biggest trouble maker in the R12 system. So I removed the EPR valve. This valve has the duty of regulating the pressure and flow of coolant to regulate the temperature just above freezing so that the expansion coils will not freeze up.
I fabricated new hoses, flush the system, replaced the dryer, put new seals in and assembled the system, vacuumed it down and it held. I then charged the system with R12, 3 cans 12 oz. each.
I too had troubles with the evaporator freezing up as well and chose to install a thermostat cycling switch on the suction side of the evaporator coils. I wrapped the sensing line around the suction tube and then wrapped it with an insulation that would allow the sensing tube to pick up the temperature of the coolant exiting the expansion coil’s.
I live in Arizona and at 100 degrees ambient temperature, the system will make 45 degree air, yes the compressor does cycle on and off which keeps the expansion coils from freezing up.
I hope this will help you set up your ac system. Good luck Azmoparboy
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on May 28, 2020 11:30:11 GMT -5
why remove the EPR valve if you were to use R12 yet? the EPR remove job is just for the R134
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Post by azmoparboy on May 28, 2020 17:02:18 GMT -5
Hi Nacho-RT74,
From what I can understand, the EPR valve will fail the easiest and I wanted to remove any and all internal things that can fail in the R12 system, by removing it and adding the cycle switch. I’ve read that it can either get stuck all the way open or all the way closed. It Can cause high pressure on the low pressure side of the system
Azmoparboy
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on May 29, 2020 4:59:17 GMT -5
sure they can fail. A friend of mine gave me for free an RV2 Compressor what it was "damaged" but really was the EPR valve somehow stuck. Removed and everything worked again. However if it was working I wouldn't remove it. That's just me of course.
I have seen those valves sometimes floating on the web NOS
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Admin
FORUM OWNER
Posts: 6,891
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Post by Admin on May 29, 2020 15:34:21 GMT -5
Good information Azmoparboy. And Welcome aboard!
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Post by Charlie on May 29, 2020 17:22:28 GMT -5
It never occurred to me that the heater hoses could be turned around incorrectly at the heater valve. Good point to bring up! I recently changed that valve, and reconnect it as the previous one was... but who's to say the one I replaced was in there right? Based on the stories and experiences you guys have shared in this thread, I have many leads to go on when I get home in a few weeks!
If it turns out that everything with the heater stuff is fine, I might just go back to R12. I can get it now, and really and truly, it would be the easiest way to make things work correctly! I have one hose that has a minor leak... I will have to replace that... but as far as the integrity of the rest of the system, it seems pretty good! And we all know... R12 will work the best because that's what the system was designed to run on. Nothing will run any better than that!
If I go back to R12... I guess I mainly have to flush the system, possibly remove the compressor to insure the oil that's in there is drained out, and change the dryer. Other than that, there's nothing else special I should have to do?
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Post by 71se3834v on May 29, 2020 20:36:49 GMT -5
If you need pictures let me know.
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Post by azmoparboy on May 30, 2020 9:07:19 GMT -5
Hi Charlie,
If it were me I wouldn’t leave no stone unturned. All of the old hoses should be replaced in my opinion. An R12 system is going to be pricey and you will want to Restore the system to its best performance so it doesn’t have a leak. If you are going to use the old compressor you should at the least replace the shaft seals in the compressor and that seal is sold at Autozone, that’s where I got mine.
Azmoparboy
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Post by 71se3834v on May 30, 2020 9:18:05 GMT -5
Hi Charlie, If it were me I wouldn’t leave no stone unturned. All of the old hoses should be replaced in my opinion. An R12 system is going to be pricey and you will want to Restore the system to its best performance so it doesn’t have a leak. If you are going to use the old compressor you should at the least replace the shaft seals in the compressor and that seal is sold at Autozone, that’s where I got mine. Azmoparboy Curious, do you have the part number for the seal? I searched high and low for one and ended up buying a NOS one from a dealer. Because of my ignorance of how the 2 piece seal worked I installed part of it backwards so not wanting to risk reinstalling it I bought a second OEM one off of eBay. Goggling the OEM part # got few results and every part available at local part chains was nothing like the original.
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