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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2011 9:41:39 GMT -5
Looks good Tom. Where do you get those bearings and washers? I'm down to my last working set. I'm working on having gaskets made for the switch plates as I can use the 15 or so minutes it takes to cut one out for other tasks. How did you get the shafts out of the brush plate bushings without pulling the bushing out? I wind up taking the brush holder off the end plate to re-install the bushing. I know where you can get new gears for your motors too. You going to be around next weekend? I'm coming to Atlanta with my wife for the weekend. She'll be in class everyday and I'm looking for somewhere to hang out for a few hours on Friday and Saturday. Topher, in most cases the shafts have freely slid out of the brush plate bushings. In the few cases that they did not....my methods caused damage to the brush holder. This was primarily due to my lack of patience. Your method of removing the brush plate is the way to go for sure. I absolutely would like to get 4-5 of the gears from you. I was planning to give give you some props later in the thread as far as a being a good parts source. I bought the Torrington bearings on eBay....about 20 of them, if I remember correctly. I'd be glad to give you a half dozen or so. I usually work on Fridays and Saturdays....I probably could take Friday off...if you wanted to run around to a few U pull it yards, or just hang out at the house and shoot the bull for a couple hours. |
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Post by charger440sixpac on Feb 24, 2011 11:50:51 GMT -5
After blasting hardware. Painted end knobs too. Paint came out a little thick...but it still works for me. Would have liked to get the screw heads a little better...but the cardboard was weakening quickly. ...  Same way I do my small bits'o hardware. #2Thumbs# Your problem is you're using that cheap USPS cardboard...  Seriously though, I solved the problem by laying down a covering of blue painters tape before mounting my hardware. The tape cushions the media and will last much, much longer. I have also masked areas on parts with painters tape and it works great. Just be sure the surface is oil/grease free to get good adhesion on the tape otherwise it'll get blasted of the part. |
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Post by 71greengo on Feb 24, 2011 12:38:02 GMT -5
Tom.....just use a piece of plywood and drill the holes.......this is a jig you will prob be using all the time ......I would even make it out of flat bar and drill and tap a bunch of holes and hang it in shop as a blasting/painting jig
Same for any of the other repetitive parts you blast and paint
the cardboard is good for one offs type work
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2011 12:58:56 GMT -5
Excellent ideas!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2011 22:26:58 GMT -5
Since I previously brought up the issue of different and sometimes mismatched parts...I thought I would take a minute to post some more pictures of that. Here is 3 different styles of limit switches that I have run across. #1 seems to be from later model cars, such as the mid to late 70`s Magnums, New Yorkers, Monacos...etc etc... these are really easy to deal with. #2 I believe is what you would have found on our 71-72 cars originally. On this style there are also 2 plastic cams that open/close the limit switches. Frankly....I don't enjoy messing around with these too much. Perhaps with experience I will get better with them. #3 is an oddball style I have only seen once. I think it was off a 68 Imperial. That motor had no end knob.  #1  #2  #3  |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2011 22:34:37 GMT -5
Earlier, Dave asked what the bushings are made of. Looking at the parts motors that I have left....I see lowers in brass/bronze.....and others in plastic. On the top bushings I see what looks to be steel and others in brass/bronze. bronze/brass lower bushing  plastic lower bushing  |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2011 22:36:56 GMT -5
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DynoDave
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Motown Mopar-Wizard
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Post by DynoDave on Feb 24, 2011 23:47:56 GMT -5
Any tricks for holding those brushes back during reassembly?
I know when we used to rebuild alternators, the brush holders would have a hole in the side for inserting a wire or toothpick, to hold the brushes back. The wire/pick could be removed after assembly and the brushes would spring into place. But I'm not seeing that feature here (perhaps because these were never meant to be field serviced?)
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2011 0:50:37 GMT -5
Any tricks for holding those brushes back during reassembly? I do not know if I would call it a trick, but that is the most difficult of reassembly. Its kind of hard to explain..I might have to get my son or daughter to take pics while I display my technique. I place the motor shaft into the barrel, awkwardly start the shaft between the brushes, then use a long pick to get the brushes over the Torrington bearing and onto the commutator. I have yet to use any trick that actually involves holding the brushes back with tape, wire.....etc etc This evening I decided to see how long it would take me to "fix" a motor without doing a cosmetic restoration. I had one intact semi working core left to do this test. This would basically entail dis-assembly, sanding the rusty shaft, installing a new bearing, and reassembly. That only took about 30-40 minutes, which was kind of nice given the many many hours it took me to get all 4 motors fixed and painted yesterday. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2011 0:59:33 GMT -5
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