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Post by hanks73340 on Jan 31, 2019 10:30:54 GMT -5
Hmmmmmm.....you guys gave me something to try with your answers above for my car. Thanks all
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DynoDave
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Motown Mopar-Wizard
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Post by DynoDave on Jan 31, 2019 13:16:45 GMT -5
"REAL" gasoline (no ethanol) might help too, if you have it available locally.
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Post by Charlie on Feb 16, 2019 11:08:15 GMT -5
Last week, I opened an account with a place in Beaumont called VP Racing Fuel. I can get ethanol-free gas there. They tell me their 87 octane typically runs about 25 cents more what you would pay at our area Raceway stations. Around here, our average gas price is about 1.90 a gallon and has been for quite some time. I filled both tanks on my old truck last week. Haven't been there in the Charger yet.
My old truck is pretty consistent on gas mileage... about 12.5 mpg. I wonder if I will notice any difference with this ethanol-free gasoline.
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DynoDave
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Post by DynoDave on Feb 16, 2019 16:06:05 GMT -5
The economy difference is real, but very small. With E10, 10% of your fuel is ethanol, which has less energy by volume than pure gasoline. So you gain some back with a pure fuel, but it's a percentage of the 10%. So it's very modest.
I find that my car runs "better". Smoother. It's a hard sensation to describe.
That price is awesome. I wish I could get that here. Aside from straight racing gas, my best option is at my local Kroger gas station, where I can get 90 octane 100% gasoline. But it's sure more than 25 cents a gallon over E10 regular.
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Post by Charlie on Dec 29, 2019 20:33:21 GMT -5
So it turns out, the front bowl on this Quick Fuel 650 does indeed get emptied out. Sometimes, the car will start, all seems fine, I back out, then just before I put it in drive, it dies as if I shut off the key... and I crank for about 10 seconds (people that WERE looking to admire and now looking and laughing) and finally it starts and I go. I'm not really interested in taking this carb apart. It's fairly new and doesn't work... goes in the garbage as far as I am concerned!
The original Holley 4 bbl is in the trunk in a box. My plan is to take it apart, clean and freshen it all up and put back on the car. Are there any pointers I need to be aware of while dealing with this carb?
A good friend of mine was suggesting I look at a Holley Street Demon. Anyone familiar with or have comments on one of those?
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DynoDave
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Post by DynoDave on Dec 30, 2019 9:20:14 GMT -5
I'm no Holley expert. And features and designs change over the years/models. But the two things I know to watch out for are:
1) Transfer tubes. Hopefully you don't have them. Small tubes running on the outside of the carb body between the bowls. Sealed with O-rings on each end, and when they leak, they spill fuel all over your engine (usually when hot). If you have them, get new O-rings at a minimum, and carry spares.
2) Power valves. For fuel mixture enrichment under load, they are 100% vulnerable to backfire. One good pop, and they rupture, and drip fuel inside the carb, leaving you with a frustrating rich mix when you don't need it. Always start with a new one.
There are Holley designs that do away with, or severely limit these shortcomings. Hopefully you have one that is of a better design.
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Post by Charlie on Jan 12, 2020 20:24:20 GMT -5
Thanks, Dave. I will look out for those. Thanks for the tip.
I will be returning home latter half of next month (out in the middle of the Pacific Ocean right now) and my carb, brakes, and radio are top of the list for Charger projects.
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DynoDave
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Motown Mopar-Wizard
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Post by DynoDave on Jan 13, 2020 6:14:30 GMT -5
There's an amazing lack of videos on the subject on YouTube. But there's one showing one leaking BADLY at about the 20 second mark. He doesn't repair it, but there are little o-rings that seal that tube on each end. Hopefully your carb is a design that just doesn't use them. Transfer Tube LeakThere appears to be more info. on power valves. Power Valve SearchAnd of course, lots of good general reading on Holley 4 barrel carbs. Holley Basics
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 18, 2020 15:22:19 GMT -5
Hey guys. DynoDave told me you had some questions about Holley carburetors. I covered some of the basic differences in a Holley 4-barrel carb back in '67 as part of the Chrysler Master Technician program.
That film is still available today, through the miracle of YouTube. No Need to set up the phonograph, projector and screen, no need to change the slide when there a beeping tone on the album...pretty nice stuff.
If you have a Holley carb this style, the information in this film may help you understand it just a little bit better. Enjoy!
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Post by Charlie on Jan 27, 2024 11:32:39 GMT -5
"REAL" gasoline (no ethanol) might help too, if you have it available locally. Dave, just wanted you to know... you were absolutely right on this!! Last year, one of the local WalMarts rebuilt their gas station at the edge of the parking lot. I didn't really think too much about it since I usually get gas from Chevron/Exxon/Shell stations. Then a few months ago, my mother mentioned to me that Walmart was selling ethanol-free gas. She thought I would be interested in getting it for my mower. I went to check it out, and yes, they had ethanol-free 87 octane gas for about 60 cents more than the 10% ethanol. I filled up, and that same day, I started to notice a huge difference in the way the car started. I've been buying my gas for the Charger there ever since. At first, I was a little concerned about running 87 instead of 89 as the book calls for, but so far I haven't heard any ping from the engine. There is another gas station in Beaumont that sells ethanol free gas, but it's too far for me to drive over there. There is nothing convenient about the location. I did, however, put the gas from that place in my truck a few years ago, and immediately I noticed some engine ping... so I never went back. So now, hot or cold, the old Charger starts right up! No more embarrassing moments of sitting in a parking lot cranking and cranking and cranking (and then sometimes dying). My battery and starter motor probably appreciate it, too!
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