|
|
Post by Nacho-RT74 on Mar 26, 2020 13:58:31 GMT -5
finally! left earliers, right laters, and the filler plug when light wass not optioned  column with the filler in place  and the AC compressor bracket with the iddler pulley   |
|
|
|
Post by Charlie on Mar 26, 2020 16:08:46 GMT -5
I see! Those columns have a lot of difference. My parents' 71 when we were kids had the later column, too. I remember the filler plug in their car.
The AC high side runs to the driver side on mine. Getting a different bracket was just a thought. I suspect the better thing to do is get the Sanden compressor.
When I first got the car, my daughter looked inside and said, "Wow, Dad! That's a lot of blue!"
|
|
|
|
Post by 71se3834v on Mar 26, 2020 19:27:28 GMT -5
I will have to take a look at my setup on the hazard switch as mine is a Nov build car. Never paid attention. Now wondering if I should stock pile a switch just in case. I probably should replace my headlight switch cause the dimmer reostat doesn't work well. You could try removing the headlight switch and spraying something in there like DeoxIT Gold in the rheostat . I think that would help some. I use that on my vintage television restorations... works wonders on the convergence controls in the back of the set. Since those controls only get turned at the factory, and then later if the set gets serviced, they kinda get in bad shape after 60 years of sitting still. This stuff really cleans and lubes them up nicely.
caig.com/deoxit-gold-g-series/
You can find it in many electronics parts stores. I just recently sprayed some in my Charger's radio pots... sure made a difference.
Thanks for the tip! My rheostat (I knew there was a letter missing in there) is so bad I only get dash lights with it in one spot. I rarely drive at night so not a big problem. Can I get the headlight switch out w/o removing the cluster? Will have to get the FSM out and do some studying. Yeah, front ac line runs to the driver's side on '71. Seems like you could somehow attach a basic v pulley to the bracket. I use to work in the small engine, lawnmower, outdoor power equipment industry and there are numerous pulleys available for a 1/2" belt. Some with a hub/shoulder on one side that would hold it off the bracket. I've got a book with various sizes if you want me to look for one. Just get me the diameter and how far it sits off the bracket. My car is not at my location yet this year. |
|
|
|
Post by Nacho-RT74 on Mar 28, 2020 17:13:56 GMT -5
sorry, forgott about get it back to respond yes... headlight switch can be replaced with cluster in place. Need to pull out the knob with shaft while pressing the release button... its a bit tricky!   then you'll gett access to the "nut" which needs to be removed.  There are sockets which makes this nut removan and install easier, but actually I never have needed  on all this process you can keep the plug conected and unplug it last... and plug it first when reinstalling. The harness is long enough to make it comfortablly lower than its original location down the dash |
|
Admin
FORUM OWNER
Posts: 6,894
|
Post by Admin on Mar 28, 2020 18:24:14 GMT -5
There are sockets which makes this nut removan and install easier, but actually I never have needed I've always used a pair of needle nose pliers "back in the day", but I'd buy a socket for a classic car. |
|
|
|
Post by Nacho-RT74 on Mar 28, 2020 18:59:05 GMT -5
Yes, I still use the nose pliers LOL
|
|
|
|
Post by brigond on Apr 15, 2020 20:17:34 GMT -5
I changed my turn signal switch harness along with my ignition switch harness.
I posted about an ignition switch change in the electrical section of the forum.
There are a bunch of pictures and great help from the guys here.
It's a sticky titled somethng like ignition switch change. If I find it I'll post the link. It may help you with the replacement.
There is also an issue with the new switches you may encounter. Tom mentioned the turn signal arm doesn't alway fit in to the switch and needs to be fround down. (The switch needs grinding). I have pics of how I grinded and where to grind the switch, in the thread.
Wondering if Tom still on the forum?
|
|
|
|
Post by brigond on Apr 15, 2020 20:19:53 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by 71se3834v on Apr 15, 2020 20:40:50 GMT -5
I knew how the knob removed, I was more concerned with if I could get my hand under there to remove the wire harness and switch. I have trouble with my hands in tight spaces. After my Ram wiring repair my hand pain (arthritis) kept me up the night after.
|
|
|
|
Post by Nacho-RT74 on Apr 16, 2020 4:38:14 GMT -5
I was able to do it, but maybe that's more a personal issue. It's doable though. Sure is tight and heater-AC control is in the middle disturbing on the process.
Yes Tom is still member and Admin, but being a bit tired of the car stuff now is dedicated to fishing LOL
|
|
