DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,169
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Post by DynoDave on Mar 11, 2013 18:19:24 GMT -5
FYI...I've never used this companies services... If you prefer the factory piece to an aftermarket replacement, and it's in rebuildable shape, perhaps these folks can help? www.fuelsender.com/services.html
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Post by cjskotni on Mar 11, 2013 20:11:50 GMT -5
I bought the $50 unit from Van's Auto on ebay and my gauge reads spot on. This is with the OEM repro fuel lines and rebuilt gauge (OEM specs). As mentioned before, it is critical to get a good ground from the sender body via the fuel line itself. This is accomplished using the metal clip that jumpers over the rubber line and then the clips to the body itself. In my situation, I have SS braided line on the pump end of the line which probably helps ground to the pump housing. Any sender you buy should have a resistance of 8-78 ohms (full - empty) If I recall correctly. I bench tested mine when I received it and it read ~10-75 ohms. This is really what determines if it will drive the gauge properly. Some of the cheapo senders will use the GM scales (had one before) that were in up the 100's of ohms and usually would bottom out at around 1/4 tank. So you see a lot of people with the 'car out of gas at 1/4 tank' issue with these... Maybe I am just lucky, but so far my guage is pretty accuate throughout the range. Mostly grounding issues, old/worn gauges, and a crapshoot aftermarket for these. I just wanted you to know you CAN get an accurate gauge with an aftermarket unit.
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Mar 11, 2013 22:46:56 GMT -5
If you have to kick the tank to get it working, it means the ground strap from the tank to the gas line is not making a good connection. second, along the gas line there is a metal strap that is driven in-between the body panels and attaches to the gas line to make a ground Check for this your problems will go away nope, it was what I told... the point inside the rheostat. I already had the ground stripe crimped with plyers and to be honored, the factory sender worked on my car even without anykind of ground reinforcement. The gast tank straps and J bolts where making apparently enough ground for it. I just added for correctness
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Post by cjskotni on Mar 14, 2013 7:05:54 GMT -5
If you have to kick the tank to get it working, it means the ground strap from the tank to the gas line is not making a good connection. second, along the gas line there is a metal strap that is driven in-between the body panels and attaches to the gas line to make a ground Check for this your problems will go away nope, it was what I told... the point inside the rheostat. I already had the ground stripe crimped with plyers and to be honored, the factory sender worked on my car even without anykind of ground reinforcement. The gast tank straps and J bolts where making apparently enough ground for it. I just added for correctness Mine was the same way. I noticed the gas gauge already seemed accurate before I put the strap on but I put it there for originality and it can't hurt. I also agree that if kicking the tank gets the gauge to move, then the issue is probably mechanical...likely the sender is stuck and sloshing the gas un sticks it. I would buy a new sender and bench test before you install. Remember ~8-78 ohms between the sender body and sender wire stud full to empty. Also get a SS unit. I had put a 'new' sender in my tank about 5 years ago, read WAY off and when I pulled it about 6 months ago to replace, it was about to turn to dust!
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Mar 14, 2013 10:04:52 GMT -5
well... mmmm... hard to get stuck the gas sender from any reading to 0 READING on an instant hehe. Is just the points sprinp againts rheostat, didn't got enough tension to make full contact at certain points.
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Post by scatpack1969 on Aug 21, 2014 21:23:00 GMT -5
Usually just a strap or a wire from the gauge base to the frame. You'd thing the fact that it sits in the tank and the tank is strapped to the body would be enough, but it isn't. But just a piece of wire and a clamp will do it. Check your fuel tank sender ground side for .5 volt or more , if there is voltage on the ground side just ground it and see if it starts working (easy stuff first) let us know, I will be glad to help.
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