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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Jun 2, 2010 23:27:52 GMT -5
ok, your one was replaced too, thats not the original breaker. Mine was same replaced but with an inline capsule fuse holder inside the box. The one on it should it be like the ones used on some AC multisockets, what is more like a thermal breaker that you can reset. I will find it at an electronic shop I have a block from home. The adapter is to use the earlier tester on lates cars. Mine is originally designed to 71/72s, your one to 73 and laters. They have the adapter circuit inside the tester. The one I have suposelly needs the adapter to work on 73 and lates, and can be keeped in to still work to earliers... dunno what really does the adapter and whats the diff between 72 and 73s to need the adapter... I'm already searching info of it. wiring is exactly the same on both, just that mine got a spliced the red wire on to a longer wire maybe to reach the batt end ( bummer, it could be hooked to the alternator end or starter relay ) I will get it back on its original lenght now my nex question. what about if you replaced the ECU with a Performance unit ? you have a 72 and I have a 74... I think we need a trade to match our cars ( Laughing Out Loud )
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,265
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Post by DynoDave on Jun 3, 2010 6:14:30 GMT -5
Good close-up on the -A showing the breaker. I never knew it had been changed...I figured it was original that way. Good to know.
I'm wondering if there was ever a dealer letter/bulletin telling them how to make this fix? If it was this common, Miller may have sent out instructions, and maybe even parts, on how to make this switch.
As to the MP boxes (orange/chrome/gold)....it's a good question. While pretty sophisticated in it's day, it's a fairly basic box by today's standards. You have to assume that it looks at dwell when testing the module. And if the dwell on those modules is outside of the std. spec. that the tester expects to see, it may well fail it.
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Jun 3, 2010 10:19:28 GMT -5
I'm wondering if there was ever a dealer letter/bulletin telling them how to make this fix? If it was this common, Miller may have sent out instructions, and maybe even parts, on how to make this switch. mostly sure were included instructions manuals. I got an interlock tester ( Thanks to Jer who helped me on get it ) that came with instructions manual, what works good to test the module, but not the sensors on car, simply doesn't turn on to make the sensors check. I contacted to Miller guys, the tools manufacturer of those, and they don't support those equipments anymore. will try to fix it. IT LOOKS probably one wire could be broken because I checked continuity and got a fail there so I already cut the plug and reattach everywire at another point. Thanks good I know how to make the manual test on car sensors. I really was more interested on test the modules itself. as soon I get to fix the breaker deal, I will let you know... The breaker fix will be A PIECE OF CAKE... the only problem will be really get the proper one
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,265
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Post by DynoDave on Jun 3, 2010 10:35:30 GMT -5
as soon I get to fix the breaker deal, I will let you know Thanks Nacho. I'd like to see how you handle that... These are great. After school, I get to go over to Nacho's house and play "Dealership Tech".
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Jun 13, 2010 1:17:00 GMT -5
The idea with the Tester is get the right stuff replaced and not everything around untill catch it.
I have changed modules thinking it was the fail, and at the end it was the pick up coil... or backwards.
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