rkh17
New Member
Posts: 55
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Post by rkh17 on Jan 8, 2012 11:13:33 GMT -5
In my 1973 Charger SE I noticed that there was some aluminum foil covering the fuse in the #3 cavity. After pulling out the foil I noticed that the 20A fuse was blown.
Hoping that the presence of the foil was just do to the previous owner being lazy, I replaced the fuse. After replacing the fuse I noticed that the brake lights no longer functioned (and assuming that all the other functions serviced by #3 as well).
Now I'm assuming that the fuse block is damaged and was wondering if anyone had any tips for removing the block before I started digging around. Looks like the block is just screwed into the firewall.
Plan is to replace it with the one from the parts car if it's damaged beyond repair.
Any tips appreciated.
Thanks,
-Rob
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Jan 8, 2012 13:27:05 GMT -5
block is pressed in with snap on clips, attached to bulkhead.
easy to release from bulkhead.
Yeap I guess is very tipical get malfunction on that fuse cavity. I have the same. That one also feeds dome light, map light and some stuff more.
I'd like to find fuse terminals replacements around to replace those
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rkh17
New Member
Posts: 55
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Post by rkh17 on Jan 8, 2012 15:31:18 GMT -5
Hey Nacho,
Thanks for your quick response. I'm working on it now. Looks like there are two parts to the block, one that's screwed into the firewall, and the box that holds the fuses has some small bolts that hold it to the back piece. The top part is turned clockwise to about 2 o'clock or so.
Should I be able to just unbolt the top part and pull it straight off?
Looks the same in my parts car.
Thanks,
-Rob
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rkh17
New Member
Posts: 55
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Post by rkh17 on Jan 8, 2012 17:51:52 GMT -5
Was able to get the block off. There was one screw that came off easily with a 5/16 socket, then it was as nacho stated, two squeeze clips on opposite corners, squeezed in and then the block pulled straight off. Was a bit easier to maneuver the block after pulling it off, but still tight with the wiring. I was able to twist it around and examine the back. Used continuity meter and found open circuit issues from the fuse clips to the buses on the back of the block. I guess that's why the foil was stuffed in there.... Still working on it. No brake lights.. Can't drive  |
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,157
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Post by DynoDave on Jan 9, 2012 13:44:50 GMT -5
Foil over a fuse...that's a new one on me!  |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2012 18:25:45 GMT -5
Foil over a fuse...that's a new one on me! Used it often.  |
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rkh17
New Member
Posts: 55
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Post by rkh17 on Jan 10, 2012 0:06:31 GMT -5
Yes, reminds me of the old penny trick. Fuse keeps blowing? stick a penny in the cavity -R |
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rkh17
New Member
Posts: 55
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Post by rkh17 on Apr 28, 2012 20:09:17 GMT -5
Looks like I'm going to have to pull the block from the parts charger to put into my driver. How much work is it to get the harness away from the column? Was up at Carlisle this weekend and one of the mopar vendors said there's just a couple of bolts to slide the column down.
Do I have to take the steering wheel off?
Searching for other posts now. Any pointers appreciated.
Thanks,
-Rob
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rkh17
New Member
Posts: 55
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Post by rkh17 on Apr 29, 2012 12:46:33 GMT -5
I found the four bolts and then two more bolts to get the column cover off. Connectors below that anyways so looks like I'm good to go.
Thanks,
-Rob
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Apr 30, 2012 17:10:15 GMT -5
I never touched the column to remove the wiring like really to remove the cluster... which makes easier to remove the complete harness... it gets lot of job to remove underdash harness easily with dash into car. Glovebox liner, ashtray, radio, kick panels...
Nowdays I preffer to remove the full dash frame and work comfortably over a bench, top get all harness correctly clipped and routed through the dash
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