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Post by 71se3834v on Jun 18, 2014 22:25:38 GMT -5
So what can I expect to spend on parts and machine shops charges for having a pair of '71 383ci 346 heads done stock?
A couple of hundred for cam and lifters then there's the gasket set.
What should I ask for when calling machine shops? It's been 30 yrs since I had some heads done and I just dropped them off, installed 'em when done along with a cam and lifters and drove the car another 40,000 mi if memory serves.
What brands are recommended for cams and lifters?
What brands should I stay away from?
From another website I have a list of Comp cam, Melling & Lunati lifters as being chinese junk. Yes or no?
Auto Zone sells Melling cam kits, Oreilly sells Melling & Sealed Power. Haven't checked Napa or the local independent parts store yet.
Man I've got some homework to do.
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Post by 1ol74charger4me on Jun 30, 2014 23:23:54 GMT -5
Get ready for sticker shock on the headwork! Best deal going unless you got a friend is Indy head service 499 0r 599 deal. They will do yours or theirs, same price. Local prices here are way higher. Mellings and Sealed Power cams have same maker. Take a look at Summit. Lifter issue has to do with spring rate. Can't do the old killer springs with the Chinese lifters. Will also wipe out many of the cams out there. Most guys resolve the issue with Johnsons lifters. Do a search on B bodies only for threads on this. Best way to go hassle free would be to get a Hughes kit, which is pricey but pretty much throw in and go. They have a cam for stock type motors that has a bit of an idle but tremendous torque.
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Post by brigond on Jul 1, 2014 11:28:44 GMT -5
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Post by 71se3834v on Jul 8, 2014 22:13:39 GMT -5
Been doing a lot of homework on this upcoming project. Found out there is 2 "johnson" lifters. Topline Hylift Johnson and just plain Johnson which happens to be located 1.5 mi from me. I plan on stopping in there to see if they sell direct to the public.
I just plan on doing a stock replacement repair job. I don't have the funds to spend anything more than I need to put it back on the road. My income has recently been severely reduced. I will already have to spend more to do some other things while the engine is out like reseal the trans & steering gearbox and possibly paint the drivers inner fender. I'm crossing my fingers and hoping there isn't more damage to the bearings, cylinders, etc. I put a few hours on the engine in 2011, drove it 240 mi in 2012 before it started running bad and put a few more hours on it in 2013 trying to figure it out so I really hope I caught it in time.
Anybody live in SE Mi. that would be interested in learning more about the inner workings of a Mopar big block that would be willing to lend me a hand? Well I thought it wouldn't hurt to ask and I'd be willing to return the favor.
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Post by 1ol74charger4me on Jul 17, 2014 19:17:05 GMT -5
All kidding aside if not here, there is probably somebody on Moparts or Bbodies only that would be glad to help you out. Mopar people usually rock when it comes to helping out others. I'm about 7 hours away or I would.
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Post by 71se3834v on Jul 19, 2014 14:55:54 GMT -5
I'm not a member of either of those forums. Wondering how such a request would be received from a newbie. It's not so much a "know how" problem but a "physical limitations" problem.
Talked to 3 different engine/machine shops. Prices vary from $200-$375 for the basic valve grind and goes up from there if it needs springs or guide replacement. Considering it'll probably need cleaning out/hot tanking I'm leaning toward going with a rering kit like Mancini offers. Hopefully that, the valve job, oil pump etc. will be all she'll need.
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Post by 71se3834v on Aug 3, 2014 23:12:42 GMT -5
Well I'm going in! Disconnected everything on the top end yesterday. Should have the underneath prepped tomorrow. Then I'll have to arrange a day when my son-in-law can help get the hood off.
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Post by 71se3834v on Sept 17, 2014 23:03:16 GMT -5
Update:
Engine has been pulled and torn down. Not much metal damage from the wiped cam. Crank is good and will polish up. However cylinder walls are worn from lack of maintenance from the previous owner. Found a local engine builder that will rebuild the short block for not much more than the machine work would cost me. Block is out to be bored .030 over. Heads have been done with new valve guides. I will install the heads and intake to save a few bucks.
Trans is out and will be sent out to be resealed as soon as I can get it cleaned up.
Steering gear is out. Trying to find a decent remaned one. Apparently Auto Zone's supplier considers damaged splines OK to be sent out. Ordered 3 before I found out A1-Cardone is their supplier. O'Reilly sells the same brand....
Spent days cleaning the K frame and under carriage. I will say one positive point on oil leaks is things don't rust when they're grimey.
Working on cleaning up some rust on the firewall and frame rail. Since I have the drivers side inner fender stripped, the brake booster and steering column out and most of the firewall stripped I'm leaning towards stripping the rest of the engine bay and throwing a coat of paint on it.
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,168
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Post by DynoDave on Sept 18, 2014 5:41:09 GMT -5
Wow, this has snowballed into a minor restoration! Sounds like you got a good deal from the engine builder. Hope everything goes well for you.
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Post by 1ol74charger4me on Sept 18, 2014 22:28:06 GMT -5
Holy Cow! Better draw a line quick or I smell frame off (figuratively speaking on unibody). Reman quality is crap from everybody. Better to get your core back and find somebody in Hemmings or bite the bullet and go Firm Feel. I started with just popping in a 3:23 suregrip in to a full rear detail and engine compartment detail with potential 4 speed swap. As Jim Carrey in the movie Mask said" Somebody stop me!". Keep us posted.
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