Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 12, 2015 21:04:44 GMT -5
Running rich = carb, weak ignition, or low compression. Diagnostically speaking....carburetors are my greatest weakness, so I'd probably swap on a known good coil and do a compression check on the engine first. From a personal perspective, also a good idea.....to prevent from throwing expensive parts at a core mechanical issue.
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gip63
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Post by gip63 on Apr 13, 2015 12:04:42 GMT -5
I called edlebrock and he said I was ideling too high and bypassing idel circuit which makes sence to me. The problem is electrical doesn't work well at low idel rpm. I'm really caught in a circle because everything you do affects everything else and when I think I have one thing solved it throughs something else out. As much as I would like to work on the car myself maybe its time to send it to a pro and get it over with, money is why I haven't yet.
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gip63
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Post by gip63 on Apr 13, 2015 16:23:20 GMT -5
Update: I used timing light and tried to to set time but had issues with advance vacuum. first I disconnected advance vac line to distributor and set base timing, then I pluged it back up to distributor and timing went off the chart. I checked vac on high side of carb where distrubitor vac goes and it was pulling 10 inches!!! I idled carb down till it hardly runs and it still pulls 5 inches. The teck guy said it should not pull any vacuum till you give it gas but I adjusted idle screws and that didn't help either. Apparently someone has changed metering rod and jet to make it leaner in the past but it ain't working. I'm at a loss
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2015 20:32:27 GMT -5
Ok...so this is basically back where it started. To begin with, your idle screws had no effect. Likely because of an open throttle plate. Seems to me that if you have ported vacuum (above throttle plates) at idle, that means your throttle plate is still not closed.
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gip63
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Post by gip63 on Apr 13, 2015 20:59:57 GMT -5
Ya that makes sence, I need to get a look down in there when its running and see if I can tell anything.
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gip63
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Post by gip63 on Apr 14, 2015 14:02:44 GMT -5
I have officially given up on this carb, I need to get someone out here that can put hands on it and figure it out. I put it back to factory specs and its gone downhill from there so I'm sure I need to back off an let a pro sort it out. If and when I get this figured out ill post what I have found to be my problems and maybe someone else can benefit from it too.
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gip63
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Post by gip63 on Apr 15, 2015 19:34:52 GMT -5
Well I lied I did try again and was able to get it idling pretty good but when I put it in gear there is no power. The idle circuit does not function like it should, to tune it where there is no vacuum on distrubitor port the engine will not run. I have adjusted timing also to try and make it work right with idle but again everything has to be tuned so low to drop vacuum it just won't run. Any thoughts?
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gip63
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Post by gip63 on Apr 22, 2015 20:34:28 GMT -5
Got car up and running finely. New plugs were need and I dropped fuel pressure down to 2.5 on the advise of a good mechanic. I was able to get vacuum down on distributor port to about 4 inches by slowing idle down, new plugs made that possible but idle screws still don't seem to have as much effect as I think they should. Took it for a drive and it ran smooth so I'm happy, happy, happy! Ill check plugs later and if I keep having problems ill look for a new carb then.
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gip63
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Post by gip63 on May 9, 2015 13:58:21 GMT -5
The question was "is it time for a new carb" and the answer is not at this time. I think the real problem was fuel pressure, I have driven it quiet a bit and the plugs are clean so far. My problem was just getting it all set up right, it runs better now than it ever has.
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DynoDave
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Motown Mopar-Wizard
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Post by DynoDave on May 9, 2015 15:11:36 GMT -5
Just in time for summer!
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