druss71
New Member
Getting rough, tough, down, dirty, wheelin and peelin!!, here at the Russell garage
Posts: 16
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Post by druss71 on May 2, 2015 4:23:12 GMT -5
hey I have got some rust issues, some holes, surface rust, front and back of the wheel wells, how should I go about handling this?
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,150
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Post by DynoDave on May 2, 2015 11:27:30 GMT -5
Got any photos of those areas?
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glr
Settling In
Posts: 204
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Post by glr on May 2, 2015 17:30:28 GMT -5
Dave, If the rust is in small areas and can be cut out and new steel welded in, that would be your cheapest way. It all depends on how much rust and how large on an area and where the area is located. They do make patch panels if you have to have them.
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Post by 1ol74charger4me on May 3, 2015 11:12:32 GMT -5
Dave, If the rust is in small areas and can be cut out and new steel welded in, that would be your cheapest way. It all depends on how much rust and how large on an area and where the area is located. They do make patch panels if you have to have them. Number 1 and best way besides full panel replacement. Number 2 way; Although felt by some to be the number one way, you can cut out the metal , create a "step" in the body panel with a flanging tool with a 1/2" flange and glue in metal or replacement panels using a 2 part epoxy. Hold until it sets up using clecos, pop rivets or vise grips. Finish out with body filler using a reinforced filler for the first fill then regular filler for finishing. Number 3 way: sandblast area (Use a small siphon or handheld self contained unit($40)) till area is "whitemetal" and rebuild area with cloth fiberglass on the back side. Finish out with reinforced filler then regular filler to finish. Believe it or not this does work well on a small budget and will last. The trick is to get it clean. Years ago we did this a lot on older cars that had no replacement panels or very intricate body lines. Don't cut out the pinholed areas but use that to give the glass something to hold onto. Finished out it looks like a more expensive and time consuming repair that can be cut out later when money and time allows. People get kind of hung up on buying 1/4 panels for cars that only see 500 miles a year and nobody knows what is underneath your paint. Which by the way Summit paint systems work great and have crossover hardners and thinners for the primer, paint and clear for least overall investment. Number 3A way; do 3 but substitute reinforced filler (Kitty Hair, Mar Glass, Fiber Tech (awesome stuff) for the cloth glass. Number 4 way; What we bodymen call the "quick and dirty way". Pound in the rusted area including 2" around the area to a depth of 3/16 to 1/4. Spray it with a rust convertor and fill it in with reinforced filler or regular putty. Lasts 6 minutes or 6 years. No guarantees. Number 5 way; aluminum duct tape and Dupli Color from Autozone.
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druss71
New Member
Getting rough, tough, down, dirty, wheelin and peelin!!, here at the Russell garage
Posts: 16
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Post by druss71 on May 6, 2015 22:58:47 GMT -5
thanks guys!
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