interior insulation check list

[Nacho-RT74]

Ok let see what our cars got from factory, from front to rear:


-Gray Cotton layer ( glued to a plastic layer ) on cowl section
-Yellow fiber firewall stuff on firewall
-Yellow fiber on kick panels
-Whatever material ( can't name it ) attached to carpet
-Insulation on roof. I have seen them in white stuff being reproed but pretty sure original was cotton stuff just like the cowl section in front
-Rear trunk divider insulation ( cotton stuff ? )
-rear package tray insulation ( cotton stuff ? )
-Sail panel cardboards with some kind of asphalt product.

then all doors clear plastic layers.


is that all ?


Mostly of them will be made locally by myself, except the yellow fiber parts, which I got them back in 2008 in my Carlisle visit

[Deleted]

I could be wrong...but that nasty stuff that they used for roof insulation does not seem like cotton to me.
Hate that stuff. Always figured it was something somewhat toxic.
One of my least favorite parts of dismantling a parts car has always been pulling down the headliner.

[Nacho-RT74]

Yes I was on same deal when I removed the original one of my car... yikes!!!! Couldn't tell for sure what it was used there, but it seemed to me somekind of cotton ( damaged of course )... or it was maybe the yellow fiber stuff ? I know it was virtually desintegrated

Am I correct on check list I did ?

I'd like to make the correct sail panels deadner reproduction with the pattern offered by 1ol74charger4me. I remember it was somekind of asphalt product over a cardboard sheet, right ?

Will keep the gray cotton stuff on cowl, rear trunk divider and rear package tray, ALTHOUGH honestly I can't remember those on my car when I dissasemblied the first time back in 1997. I'm just talking about that due the reproductions I have seen being offered around.

don't know if I will add some stuff on floor. I know everybody install that Dinamat stuff. I don't know if that is available locally, but maybe something similar. I'm sure since I added performance, got more heat underneath the car

[DynoDave]

That headliner material is a lot more fun to remove when it's been a community bathroom for mice.

[1ol74charger4me]

May 26, 2015 7:32:40 GMT -5 DynoDave said:

That headliner material is a lot more fun to remove when it's been a community bathroom for mice.

Speaking of mice, I wish I had made a copy but Hemmings Motor News had a article one time of all the diseases you could catch from mice feces and it put the fear in me. I was restoring cars at that time and it was an almost daily occurrence to come in contact with the vermin. Wear a mask and keep clean habits when dealing with this stuff if you can.

I'm not sure what you have available in Venezuela but I though I might make some suggestions on alternative material usage. The roof insulation is real similar to what upholsterers call "cotton batting". This is used often to build up cushions that have lost shape and the neat thing about it is you can separate it in layers like peeling a onion. The roof insulation has a thin layer of plastic over it, probably to hold it together and make it easier to glue in place. To make a somewhat accurate insulation would be to take a 3/8 to 1/2 of batting , shoot some spray glue like 3m #77 on it and cover with plastic like you will use to make the watershields for your doors. Then use the spray glue to affix to the roof. Helpful hint-use a roller of some kind to roll over the material to glue it tight to the roof or it will end up on top of your headliner when the heat hits it. I use what is call a veneering roller for doing wood veneer. Substitutes could be rolling pin for baking or stack a whole bunch of washers on a bolt and configure some sort of handle.
The cotton batting is real similar to the insulation under my rear shelf cover so one could use it there also in a layer of 1/4 to 1/2".
The insulation for the back of the seat is real similar to what we call carpet padding for household carpeting so that could be used there. My car actually has the carpet pad insulation and the other side is a asphalt like covering like the sound deadner. Very heavy and very dense. A note for historical accuracy would be that it is taped at the top with the black 2" paper tape. The kick panel insulation is taped also. The carpet padding side is visible in the trunk. If I was fabricating the seat back panel I would use a big piece of cardboard and glue the carpet pad to it. The carpet pad is really tuff to cut so use a razor knife or carpet knife.
This is the material the sound deadener panel behind the sail panel is similar to. www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=50 I will probably use these and since it will take more than 1, taping them at the seams with Gorilla Tape. Awesome stuff! These are great because they are self adhering but if I may make a suggestion. You could do like antique cars did and use what is called roofing felt or tar paper for sound deadner and glue 2,3, or ? layers on top of each other and glue it down. If you were to glue a layer of heavy brown paper to it, it would look very authentic. You could find the paper as parcel wrap or a tailor, dressmaker,or upholstery shop. Here it is still used as grocery sacks. You could also use this on the floor in a thicker built up layer. Dynamat and other products are great but expensive and a mess to work around if you have to do rework where they have been laid.
Something else my car has is that the rear seatbelts have a circle of 1/4" white or yellow foam insulation under the bolts between the floor and the seatbelt. Not sure if this is insulation or sound proofing but it is there. It' like a 3 or 4" circle.
For the floor heat you could use a reflective material like water heater insulation or (don't laugh) layers of aluminum foil against the floor and built up tar paper on it. Just some free suggestions.

[1ol74charger4me]

Something else that somebody may be able to use is that white caulking was used on the door water shield and that can be found at hardware stores or home improvement store as window strip caulking for sealing around household windows. This would be for originality. Modern cars use butyl tape or the nastiest stringiest "spooge" you have ever seen. Substitutes would be window ribbon tape for gluing in windshields. The idea is to use some kind of non hardening sealant that will allow access to the inside of the door for repair but yet keep water and dust from ruining your door panels.

[Charlie]

Does anyone have any photos of what it looks like under the dash where the yellow fiber insulation is? I was looking around under the driver side, and kinda think I have some pieces missing. All I have is a piece on the far left near where the e-brake mounts, and then to the far right where there is a piece to the right of the gas pedal mounting. There are no pieces in the middle.

I've been looking at year one... I see the yellow fiber kit for gen 3 chargers, but only recognize the two pieces I mentioned above. I was trying to figure if something was supposed to be on the left side of the gas, and also around the steering tube.

That area gets really hot. I alctually burned myself poking around on the firewall near the gas pedal from under the dash... while the engine was running. It wasn't pleasant. Sometimes I notice a burning smell coming from the glue on the backside of the carpet. Looking for that smell is why I burned myself.

And under my carpet... there is nothing... probably why the inside of my car is so loud! I see there is rubber matting you can get at year one, but seems like that could get hot and start smelling as well. I thought it originally had a jute backing under the carpet?

[DynoDave]

I do not, but you might try checking out the patterns for replacements from Detroit Muscle Technologies.

www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/mopar-b-body-71-74-ac-firewall-insulation-with-pins-kickpanel-insulation/

Jim is very particular about the correctness of his patterns and materials. The example linked is a full kit for '71 cars with A/C. There are others.

www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/71-charger/

[jeremy]

May 26, 2015 22:15:43 GMT -5 1ol74charger4me said:

May 26, 2015 7:32:40 GMT -5 DynoDave said:

That headliner material is a lot more fun to remove when it's been a community bathroom for mice.

Speaking of mice, I wish I had made a copy but Hemmings Motor News had a article one time of all the diseases you could catch from mice feces and it put the fear in me. I was restoring cars at that time and it was an almost daily occurrence to come in contact with the vermin. Wear a mask and keep clean habits when dealing with this stuff if you can.

It just so happens mice are one of my favorite things to bitch and moan about Your mice must be different from mine, because if my mice carried hanta virus et al I would have been dead decades ago.

I hate them though. I trap them, new ones move in the next day. I poison them, they eventually die; often in the car, after moving the mouse poison into their nest in the car. They've only eaten the insulation off one speaker wire, but they've harvested the new jute above the heater box for nesting material and I have not had the chance to drive the car even once yet. So while I'm all for putting in new insulation around the cowling, what good does it do if the mice are going to eat it?

I honestly think every car company should get a class action lawsuit for failing to engineer for mice. You might say "Jeremy, they can't do that!" Why not? Just start with the idea of a seamless steel egg, and every opening has to be approved by the Mouse Entry Prevention Team. No, you can't put openings willy nilly all over the place. Every single one must be accounted for, approved, and engineered so that even a baby mouse can't get in.