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Post by mopartybob on Apr 13, 2017 18:55:27 GMT -5
howdy all... my brakelites have been disconnected since coming out of (17 yr) storage. hooked up the wires to the switch and tried to start it up,all I get is a chatter like a dead batt. unhooked one wire and she fired right up, no lag, no drain on batt. have yet to get into it but its on the list now.... any ideas  .cheers |
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,169
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Post by DynoDave on Apr 13, 2017 20:41:48 GMT -5
Yikes. I have not yet had the pleasure of working on the 40+ year old wiring harness of my Charger, with it's factory bulkhead connector and all. Of course, that could be because I bought my car without an inch of wiring in it.... Hopefully Nacho or someone with some electrical experience on these cars will be able to help out. |
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Tom
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Itching to get back to posting!
Posts: 737
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Post by Tom on Apr 13, 2017 22:18:34 GMT -5
I think I would put the wire(s) back on the brake switch to duplicate the previous scenario.
That the brake light circuit could so drastically effect the starting circuit seems very unlikely.
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Apr 14, 2017 7:26:34 GMT -5
ok... really WEIRD!
brake lights are sourced from the batt side of the fuseblock, so if there is a short, the fuse should blow up. But let's track the fail like what you describe "is posible".
Pink wire is the hot one, white one is the one running to turning switch, then to rear
you could begining just pluging the pink wire and check what happens. If starts up normally, then disconect every part of the circuit up to rear... these are:
Turning switch plug down the column
Kick panel plug
trunk area plug
license plate area plug ( to feed right side )
after that, conect white wire and try to crank... if works, then conect the turning switch plug and try again... untill crank fails... there you find the problem
but once again, I can't find any relation between a brake lights failure and a cranking failure like a death batt
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Apr 14, 2017 7:28:02 GMT -5
forgot to say, if doesn't crank up when pink wire is conected, it could be the brake pedal switch... then also can try to bypass it jumping both wires to check if cranks up with brake lights on
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Post by mopartybob on Apr 16, 2017 12:43:39 GMT -5
I think I would put the wire(s) back on the brake switch to duplicate the previous scenario. That the brake light circuit could so drastically effect the starting circuit seems very unlikely. lol.....had to pull the drivers seat to wiggle into a position to get a clear view of wassup , found a bolt on the steering column that was making contact with the white side of the terminal on the switch, fixed that right up and alls good.....  , so now I took it a step further, found that neutral safety switch inop, car will not crank with headlites on...i'm sure theres more............. but thanks gentlemen for your help and suggestions....happy easter everyone |
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Tom
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Itching to get back to posting!
Posts: 737
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Post by Tom on Apr 16, 2017 14:32:21 GMT -5
found that neutral safety switch inop, car will not crank with headlites on...i'm sure theres more.......... This one is not making sense either. NSS operation should not vary whether the headlights are on/off |
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.cheers
, so now I took it a step further, found that neutral safety switch inop, car will not crank with headlites on...i'm sure theres more.............