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Post by odzking on Feb 15, 2019 11:45:43 GMT -5
Well quick story Charlie. I had put gaskets on my 73 and they blew out 2 times. Seems Chrysler never used gaskets to begin with. I took it and had the manifolds plained an problem solved. As far as the connector to the pipe, donuts are the best, not the conventional oval like one.
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Post by Charlie on Feb 15, 2019 13:00:27 GMT -5
Yeah I recently removed the intake/exhaust manifold on a 300-I6. Apparently Ford didn't always use gaskets, either!
So I've got the car back. He couldn't get anywhere with it... and... my truck has an issue with the brakes so I just swapped vehicles at the shop because the truck's brakes are currently higher priority than the car's ticking. Oddly though, the ticking has lessened a bit. Now instead of ticking loudly starting at 55 and continues anywhere above that speed, it now starts at 55-60 and starts to quiet down a bit around 65-70. It's not as loud, either.
I wonder... just before I brought the car to the shop, I changed the oil and went with Mobil 1 10W30. I'm pretty sure it only had conventional oil in it previously. The old oil was still fairly clean looking. Supposedly was changed just before I got the car, and I've put about 2K miles on it since I got it. I had read somewhere that switching to synthetic might help to quiet noisy lifters. Perhaps would start to notice a difference after 500 miles or so. I've put 300 miles on it since the oil change. So... I wonder if this is what's going on? I guess time will tell. But it certainly is quieter than it was before.
Something else I did that could have had an effect on noises. I tightened all the spark plugs. I felt like they weren't in there good enough. Probably got between 1/8 and 1/4 turn out of each one. I even thought the engine idled a little better after that.
Just for grins and since it's cheap, I changed the little flat exhaust manifold -> exhaust pipe gasket. It's now got a minor leak... nothing too embarrassing. I likely just need to get in there and give it another crank on the bolt. Because of the current minor leak (and since I can hear both this leak AND the ticking), it tells me this gasket was not the culprit.
While I was under there, I removed the inspection plate so I could see the torque converter bolts. They all looked fine... couldn't find anything in there that might be a problem. I certainly was surprised just how close those are to the engine block!
Will keep you posted if the noise changes any more.
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Post by Charlie on Jun 11, 2019 8:38:00 GMT -5
UPDATE
I think I found the ticking issue... timing!!
A while back, I was under the hood and had the engine running. As I was looking around while it was idling, I notice the distributer wiggling back and forth a little. I grabbed it and with a light twisting, turned the damn thing! Well holy crap it wasn't tightened down... at all! I thought, "Wow... I can't believe I drove this car home 1100 miles with a loose distributer!"
The last time I used my timing light, it gave me a good shock. So needless to say, I wasn't interested in experiencing THAT again! Two things that really really hurt... engine ignition systems and the HV in a CRT color television set! I don't know what the voltage is going to spark plugs, but I do know that the DC voltage going to your picture tube in a TV is about 20 to 25KV, and it's quite painful!
So for the moment, I just tightened it down where it was. It seemed to run fine there. I figured I would get around to buying another timing light and check it. Thinking back, I'm pretty sure the ticking had already started before I discovered the loose distributer.
Last week, I bought a timing light and gave it a check. It was set at about 15-20 degrees before TDC. For giggles, I brought it to 2.5 degrees BTDC (since that's what the sticker says) and drove it. I quickly found it would cough when stepping on the gas, and sometimes die. So then I went and set it to 5 degrees. A little better, but still some hesitation. Anyways, I played with it for a while, and will probably continue to do so.
After driving it around for the day, I started to realize that the engine wasn't making that embarrassing ticking noise anymore! So I wondered... could my timing setting have been the cause of this? I realize that some people really crank up the timing... so my 15 to 20 degrees shouldn't really be that big of an issue. So, I went back out there and set it again... this time to about 12 degrees then drove it. I started to hear the ticking again, but not as soon as before. Now it was happening about 65 mph instead of the 50 to 55 mph that it did previously.
I really want to put the timing back to the 15 to 20 degree mark because I really felt the car ran better there. Less hesitation on acceleration for sure... although not completely gone. That's going to be a discussion for another day. But on this ticking... should timing really be causing this? Is this an indication of something bad?
Thoughts? **
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Jun 11, 2019 11:01:43 GMT -5
Two things that really really hurt... engine ignition systems and the HV in a CRT color television set! I don't know what the voltage is going to spark plugs, but I do know that the DC voltage going to your picture tube in a TV is about 20 to 25KV, and it's quite painful! around same voltage if using stock coil BUT diff amperage... I think the TV tube handles more
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Post by 71se3834v on Jun 11, 2019 21:01:24 GMT -5
Could you have been hearing spark knock/pre-ignition?
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Post by Charlie on Jun 11, 2019 21:05:08 GMT -5
Ping? No, this isn't ping.
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Post by Charlie on Jun 12, 2019 0:31:09 GMT -5
Curious: How much vacuum should it take to operate the vacuum advance on the distributor?
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,169
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Post by DynoDave on Jun 12, 2019 7:55:34 GMT -5
Hmm...I don't know that I've ever seen a spec on that.
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Jun 12, 2019 9:38:07 GMT -5
Since is ported, it can be from minimun. I know my Haynes Manual got that number but my manual is in Vzla, and I'm 8K Kms from it
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Post by Charlie on Jun 12, 2019 22:28:35 GMT -5
I have been noticing it takes quite a bit of vacuum to move the advance on my distributor. The ported vacuum from the carb pulled about 5 inches on my gauge... which doesn't seem to be enough to move the advance. I am thinking about going to get a new advance... but man I hate jacking around with that.
I feel that if that advance moved easier with the ported vacuum supplied, I could likely put the timing closer to what the book calls for. I think it's set to 15 before right now.
I also toyed with the thought of just buying a whole new distributor... easier to change it all out in one shot.
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