eckertc1
Moderator
Techno-Wizard[/color]
Posts: 923
|
Post by eckertc1 on Sept 5, 2008 20:39:48 GMT -5
Any one ever used a product called All-Metal body filler? If so could I get a review, usage tips, ect.....
|
|
Doright
Been Here A While
Posts: 908
|
Post by Doright on Sept 6, 2008 20:16:39 GMT -5
Yes I heard of it I havnt used it yet though I think it would be simular to JB weld and anouther stuff called marinetex If it is simular I am sure it gets rock hard and would be an s o b to sand smooth so you would want to get it as smooth as possible before it kicks.
They say it files and sands like lead, I wonder if thats lead of yesterday or the lead free lead of today?
I havnt used it yet so I am only guessing. I was going to try some on my kids car. At 85 bucks a gallon it better be good stuff!
|
|
|
Post by 71greengo on Sept 6, 2008 20:31:22 GMT -5
I have used metal based fillers allot.....it has been around for years...great for building up areas for contouring, or for general fill ins, then top with Polyester fillers.....extremely hard to sand, and some of the stuff in the past would attract a magnet and when somebody was using a magnet to check for "Bondo" the magnet would stick to this stuff!.....I believe All Metal is Aluminum based and holds up to moisture very well....But if you do metal work properly with no pin holes and clean any brazing you may have done (sandblasting the welded area works best...then Epoxy etch primer then Polyester filler...it will last for many years...and much easier to work with....I believe ALL Metal is for use when your prep work/metal repair may not be up to snuff....just my opinion, I am sure you can get fantastic results with this product.
|
|
eckertc1
Moderator
Techno-Wizard[/color]
Posts: 923
|
Post by eckertc1 on Sept 6, 2008 21:55:10 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies guys. I took what you said into consideration and then went ahead and tried this stuff out tonight on an area where I was worried about the metal being a bit thin from all the hammer dolly work.
And now that I have used it, let me give my review.. ;D
I actually got an aluminum based product called "Metal-To-Metal' made by "Ever-Coat", was told it was the same thing as All-Metal. My first piece of advice is DO NOT MIX AS DIRECTED!! this stuff hardens so hard so fast, you can't apply it fast enough. by the time I had this stuff mixed and spread a golf ball size clump of it, it was already starting to clot up from being too dry.
I mixed a second batch with half the directed hardener and it worked really well.
It goes on smooth, dries smooth, sands to a really nice finish with little or no pin holes and is hard as a rock when dry.
the only other thing to keep in mind is that if you think glaze sands hard, you better spread this stuff smooth and leave it low because this stuff sands REALLY HARD.
|
|
Doright
Been Here A While
Posts: 908
|
Post by Doright on Sept 8, 2008 17:24:51 GMT -5
I kinda figured it would be tuff too sand
thanks for the follow up
|
|
|
Post by 71rt4me on Sept 22, 2008 13:57:37 GMT -5
I use metal to metal filler in a few areas in particular.When doing a rotiserrie resto,I like to make sure the underbody has no road rash,dings etc.You will find cars driven on gravel roads have many dings and bumps on the leading edges of the torsion bar crossmember,rear frame rails and the flange where the rear footwell pans meet the main floor pan.after repairing these areas,I use the all metal filler because it is silver.That way,when you drive the cars and get new dings,at least it shows silver like steel instead of bondo color.
|
|