|
Post by Charlie on Mar 29, 2020 17:25:02 GMT -5
Can anyone tell me how to get the cassette recorder out of the car? I've removed the top plastic cover, and then two 3/8" nuts on a bracket on each side of the unit... but this puppy ain't budging! I don't see any other nuts/screws. Please someone enlighten me!
|
|
|
Post by 71se3834v on Mar 29, 2020 20:16:17 GMT -5
The only way I could figure to do it is to drill the rivets out for the bracket that goes over the top of the unit. Lifts right out then. I replaced the rivets with tiny screws.
|
|
|
Post by Charlie on Mar 29, 2020 21:35:02 GMT -5
I figured it out. There was another 3/8" nut on the back that I did not see. The bracket you mention over the top- it pops right off.
But WOW talk about a can of worms! So I had ordered a belt for it several months back.... I don't really remember where I got the number for the belt... someone had talked about it on one of these sites. Just for giggles, I ordered two. Well, I guess it's a good thing I did! Turns out, this thing uses two belts. The thing I'm not sure about it whether or not they are the right belts.
The old 1970's belts turned to goo! I saw this same thing on one of my TEAC reel-to-reel decks... talk about a mess!! Problem is... this crap gets on EVERYTHNG!! Get it on your fingers and you have to use diesel or gasoline to get it off!
I can make the new belts fit, but they kinda get stretched out a lot and typically that's not the way this works. I've changed lots of belts thru the years in tape decks and vcr's… they usually not this tight. But then, for now I guess it's not going to matter. I could always order new belts again. I still gotta clean more goo out, but will require me to take it apart even more... I have to figure out how to get the pc board out of the way.
Finding a schematic for this would help, too. I'll look in my Sams Photofact collection to see if I have something. If not, I'm sure it's on the internet somewhere. If anyone happens to have one, lemme know.
|
|
|
Post by Charlie on Mar 30, 2020 1:02:57 GMT -5
So got me a schematic thru Sams for $22.00. I have most schematics for radio/tv/stereos from 1946 to 1975 (about 5 full filing cabinets full), but car items starting in the late-60's are in a separate catalog... something I don't have. Didn't really need it for just changing the belts, but it does give me the original part numbers for each belt... which apparently are supposed to be different. I will look into get those later. For now, I have installed the belts I had on hand.
Cleaning up the pulleys that the belts ride on is quite a big deal. All that goo must be cleaned or it will just cause problems. Cleaning requires lots of q-tips, alcohol, tooth picks, and paper towels. Would be a good idea to use some of those plastic surgeon gloves because this crap is a challenge to get off your fingers.
I haven't installed the deck back in the car yet... I will do that in the morning.
Later, I plan on rebuilding the playback circuits because there's some static now and then... either electrolytics or transistors causing it. I'm not concerned about refreshing the record section. I don't have the gear to align those circuits. It will likely record as is... just wont be that great.
Cleaned and demagnetized the tape heads while I had it apart. I bet THAT hasn't been done since it left the factory.
|
|
|
Post by 71se3834v on Mar 30, 2020 7:55:35 GMT -5
The deck was missing when I bought my car. I picked up a non working one with floor mount minus the top cover for $75. Sold the mount. It was missing the bottom cover for the deck (honestly, who removes a cover and puts it back in the mount). Yep, belts were goo. I wasn't planning on having a working cassette player so just cleaned it up and installed it. It's just for show. If you get those belt #'s post 'em up so I can put them down in my list of part numbers for possible future use. Do you have the cable? Mine was also missing. Got a damaged one with my purchase but picked up a bypass plug to see if I can get the radio to work. Haven't gotten around to it yet and speaker is surely shot anyway.
|
|
Admin
FORUM OWNER
Posts: 6,891
|
Post by Admin on Mar 30, 2020 8:06:30 GMT -5
Very interesting that the SAMs manual says the belts are two different part numbers. Did they originally run different paths?
|
|
|
Post by 71se3834v on Mar 30, 2020 9:16:01 GMT -5
Yeah, two belts running two different mechanisms. Excuse my terminology ignorance but guessing one ran the spool to pull the tape across the head and one spool pulls the tape the other way???
|
|
|
Post by Charlie on Mar 30, 2020 9:27:00 GMT -5
My deck is model #3501045. When I looked them up on the Sams Photofact sight, it seems there were several different units in the 350XXXX series... like whether it's a Mark 3 or Mark 4... and I am sure there's a minor difference in circuits. I also think some of the units listed were radios, but they did not show photos for all of them, and being the pic is small till you buy it, it's hard to make out what's in the photo. Where the BELTS are concerned, I am going to assume they should all be the same.
In MY deck, the belts are as follows...
Flywheel Drive Belt part #310328401102. I did some Google searching and found this belt crosses to SCX10.7 and saw this for sale in various places including ebay. The "10.7" in the part number is the internal circumference of the belt in inches.
Fast Wind Belt part #310410405403. A footnote says this belt can be replaced with WALSCO belt number 1425-07. Google searches found these numbers cross-reference to numbers AV-SBS8.6 and SCX8.6 and can be found easily.
My rear speaker does not work at this time. I changed the output transistor for that channel on the back of the radio, but still no luck. Something before that output is not working as the transistor does not get hot. I changed a few capacitors that I had on hand and same result. I don't usually work on things this small (I work on tube-based electronics), so I will have to make a list of caps to get. I still haven't gone thru my small handful of general use transistors... I might have some replacements... if not I'll have to buy some in town.
The cable appears to be a 7-pin DIN connector that was very common in audio gear. Can be found at many electronics supply stores or sites.
|
|
|
Post by Charlie on Mar 30, 2020 9:45:18 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Nacho-RT74 on Mar 30, 2020 11:22:47 GMT -5
I used an 8 pins DIN connector ( because the shop close to home didn't have the 7 pins one in stock ) to fabricate the line in insert for external input using a normalized 1/8" jack conector. 7 pins and 8 pis use the same disposition except the 8th pin being just right in the center, so the hole won't be used.
|
|