Post by brigond on May 7, 2021 23:15:45 GMT -5
I've had the kit and finally decided to install it.
Haven't road tested or re-set the timing yet but the engine does start .
Here is a link to a good YouTube video that shows you how to disassemble the distributor.
Here are some pictures that I took to highlight a couple of steps that you might get hung up on.
The limiter plate is pretty cool.
1st picture shows spring instructions.
2nd picture shows the stock springs. (Before the modification)
3rd picture shows 1 new (light) kit spring and the remaining (lighter) of the stock springs.
4th picture shows that I used the 14 degree slots on the limiter plate.
You choose the amount of mechanical timing you want in the distributor.
I don't know the history of my engine so I chose 14 degrees mechanical timing based on some reading I did . Basically a guess as to what my engine will like and how much mechanical timing to use.
I read that less timing in the distributor and more at the crank (idle timing) is what you want. The limiter plate gives you options.
5th picture shows the little clip that holds the shaft in place. Long skinny needle nose pliers did the trick. The clip is easy to drop or loose (be careful). Two little arms on the clip stick up. To get it out,, you either spread them with the needle nose or grab an arm and gently pluck it upward like I did.
6th picture shows the shaft and what the clip looks like. Some distributors don't use the clip, they use a screw instead.
7th picture show how I RE INSTALLED THE CLIP. I placed the clip in the hole (arms sticking up) and looked for something to place in the hole like a wood dowel or something about the same size as the hole.. I found a T50 star tool that worked. Gently push down. The flat surface at the end of the star tool seems to have pushed down on the arms, causing them to spread and seat the clip in place.. Also used 2 small flathead screwdrivers to make sure the clip was sitting in place correctly. A good flashlight is your friend.
8th picture shows how I pushed the reluctor down evenly with 2 Chinese chopsticks. Tap the back of both chopsticks with a hammer or rubber mallot. MAKE SURE THE ROLL PIN THAT STICKS OUT ON THE BOTTOM OF THE RELUCTOR GOES DOWN INTO THE HOLE/SLOT. Line it up before you push the reluctor down the shaft.
I marked the location on the top of the shaft (sharpie) but it rubbed off. I lined it up by eye with the help of a little mirror and a flashlight.
9th picture... (out of order) but it shows one of the distributor weights out of the distributor with the new spring attached. I attached it, placed the weight back in and attached the other end. For a street car the kit instructions say to replace the heavier of the two stock springs. This gives you all the timing at 2400 RPM.
I still have to set the total timing and test drive it. I'm going to start with 34 degrees total timing. I now know that I have 14 in the distributor which means that I'll end up with 20 degrees at the crank.
Haven't road tested or re-set the timing yet but the engine does start .
Here is a link to a good YouTube video that shows you how to disassemble the distributor.
Here are some pictures that I took to highlight a couple of steps that you might get hung up on.
The limiter plate is pretty cool.
1st picture shows spring instructions.
2nd picture shows the stock springs. (Before the modification)
3rd picture shows 1 new (light) kit spring and the remaining (lighter) of the stock springs.
4th picture shows that I used the 14 degree slots on the limiter plate.
You choose the amount of mechanical timing you want in the distributor.
I don't know the history of my engine so I chose 14 degrees mechanical timing based on some reading I did . Basically a guess as to what my engine will like and how much mechanical timing to use.
I read that less timing in the distributor and more at the crank (idle timing) is what you want. The limiter plate gives you options.
5th picture shows the little clip that holds the shaft in place. Long skinny needle nose pliers did the trick. The clip is easy to drop or loose (be careful). Two little arms on the clip stick up. To get it out,, you either spread them with the needle nose or grab an arm and gently pluck it upward like I did.
6th picture shows the shaft and what the clip looks like. Some distributors don't use the clip, they use a screw instead.
7th picture show how I RE INSTALLED THE CLIP. I placed the clip in the hole (arms sticking up) and looked for something to place in the hole like a wood dowel or something about the same size as the hole.. I found a T50 star tool that worked. Gently push down. The flat surface at the end of the star tool seems to have pushed down on the arms, causing them to spread and seat the clip in place.. Also used 2 small flathead screwdrivers to make sure the clip was sitting in place correctly. A good flashlight is your friend.
8th picture shows how I pushed the reluctor down evenly with 2 Chinese chopsticks. Tap the back of both chopsticks with a hammer or rubber mallot. MAKE SURE THE ROLL PIN THAT STICKS OUT ON THE BOTTOM OF THE RELUCTOR GOES DOWN INTO THE HOLE/SLOT. Line it up before you push the reluctor down the shaft.
I marked the location on the top of the shaft (sharpie) but it rubbed off. I lined it up by eye with the help of a little mirror and a flashlight.
9th picture... (out of order) but it shows one of the distributor weights out of the distributor with the new spring attached. I attached it, placed the weight back in and attached the other end. For a street car the kit instructions say to replace the heavier of the two stock springs. This gives you all the timing at 2400 RPM.
I still have to set the total timing and test drive it. I'm going to start with 34 degrees total timing. I now know that I have 14 in the distributor which means that I'll end up with 20 degrees at the crank.
