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Post by brigond on Jun 6, 2021 20:48:34 GMT -5
I was thinking of taking my AC compressor out of the car to clean and paint it. I still want to use the car so I'm thinking of buying a shorter belt to run the alternator and taking the compressor off line. The A C doesn't work (missing a hose) but I want to keep it there for show. Someday maybe I'll fix the system.
Questions.....for a 383 , what size (shorter) belt would I need?
I'm thinking that I'll leave the compressor in the car without a belt . (Why spin the compressor for no reason).
Is there anything I should consider before doing this?
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Jun 7, 2021 1:28:22 GMT -5
The problem is the compressor belt also makes run the alt. It's doable? Yes, a friend of mine made it BUT once the belt was installed between just alt and crank, the belt was too close to one of the the water pump bolts. This made to cause friction with the bolt when running.
This was made on to a 73 400. Althought 71/72 belt setup is slightly diff, the alt/compressor/crank belts run the same between pre72 and post 73 big blocks. Differences are on water pump and steering pump.
Compressor won't be spinning while clutch is not actvated, but just the pulley. Pulley gets its own bearing mounted onto the compressor crank shaft, while crank stays in place.
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Post by odzking on Jun 7, 2021 9:13:47 GMT -5
If you keep it there with no belt it would more obvious that it's not connected. Make sure the bearing runs free and leave it hooked up. OR if it were me I'd get the system working. Just sayin'
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Post by brigond on Jun 7, 2021 11:25:07 GMT -5
Thank you fellas. This was the insight I was looking for. I'm going to wait and take it apart in the off season. Having the car to bring to local car events take priority. Yes, the intention is to eventually get the ac going.
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Post by odzking on Jun 8, 2021 8:34:04 GMT -5
I have to say if you have (or can find) the original parts, stick with that. I did the aftermarket, new style and while I can't say it doesn't work, it freezes all the time. I've taken it everywhere to be looked at and hear the same, they don't work like the original does. So, as I know I have mentioned previously, while I had the compressor I gathered up the original hoses and necessary parts and will be going back to OEM eventually. I will convert to the new gas and repair. The whole point of buying this car - beside the fact that I wanted another Charger, was to have an AC car to take to Carlisle. But if it freezes an hour away from home what good is it.
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Post by brigond on Jun 8, 2021 13:17:05 GMT -5
I remember you posting about the installation. It's good to know about the issued with the aftermarket system..
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Post by 71se3834v on Jun 8, 2021 21:50:59 GMT -5
I converted mine to R134 and got it up and running a few years ago so let me know if you have any questions. I'm no expert but Pete in NH on DC.com (and I think he might be on here) helped my through it and I still have all the emails. Have you tried to find the missing line yet? I'm not sure if they are reproduced. You might try swap meets or internet. There is a major swap meet up here every winter.
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Post by brigond on Jun 9, 2021 15:22:14 GMT -5
Thanks! I haven't been looking because it's a back of the list project. I should be looking though. The line that goes from the canister to the firewall.
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Post by 71se3834v on Jun 9, 2021 21:27:36 GMT -5
'71 right? The line that's there looks different than mine. The large part is the muffler and mine is closer to the compressor. Maybe they made a mid year change. The canister is the receiver/dryer which absorbs moisture in the system. You'll need a new one once it's been open to the air. I bought an aftermarket one locally I believe and it looks pretty much OE. I can dig up the part # if need be. I'll try to remember to look at my line and take a pic when get the car out this weekend. You'll need to plan on flushing out the oil in the compressor if you're gonna run R134. Easy to do just pull off the sump and clean out, replace gasket and line gaskets and you'll want to pull all the lines off, blow out lines and condenser and replace o rings. Well worth it. I didn't really enjoy driving in July & August when it got hot out and AC cars have no natural ventilation just warm air blowing through the system. Now it's ice cold air blowing.
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Jun 10, 2021 1:22:22 GMT -5
That line uses to be the harded to find because not too much ppl takes care to get them out from cars when selling AC compressors and related parts, so I think they seem to get lost into the crushers with the cars... but the advantage is it should be the same for any engine ( no block family specific ) like the rest of lines.
Make yourself a favor, cap the niple to save from debris there.
Note, Rockauto sells dryer filter specific for regrigerant application. They sell R134 and R12 ( four season brand ) which looks allmost exactly the same to the factory ones. I have the PNs for both. Have to dig out between my old mails.
Same about the expansion valve. The PN changes by just one digit if selecting them for R134 or R12. Something like "XABCDE" and "YABCDE"
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