130 amp alternator

[rocky]

can i use a 130 amp alternator on my 71 superbee 340 without changing the wire from alt to battery? thanks

[Nacho-RT74]

On stock configuration, there is mot a straight path between alt and batt.

However:

alt and wiring upgrade… and understanding the ammeter readings


A wiring upgrade is a good advice. Your car will keep sucking the same load except if accesories added. But the wiring paths are weak spot specially at bulkhead still om stock equipment, specially if the bat gets constantly discharged. If you add accesories a d you still have the ammeter on line please source them on alt side of the charging system.

An alt upgrade is more to guarantee a better charging caoacity at low speeds.

I would go further deep into the charging system checking, including the ammeter conditions. After 40+ years of abuse, it can get some overheated spots anle to get loosem ten studs into the internal shunt and cracked isolators

[rocky]

thanks for the explanation

[DynoDave]

That's probably twice or more the amperage that circuit was designed to handle. Add on the 50+ year age of the original wiring, and I think upgrading the wiring is your best bet.

[71se3834v]

I installed a rebuilt Napa alt rated at 78 amps. Application was for an 80's Dodge van. The sticker on it stated 51 amps at 2000 rpm's. I believe that's the pulley not the engine rpm's. New underhood wiring and a 10 gauge bypass on the charging circuit and at idle with the headlights and ac on its still charging. No discharge. No additional power accessories in the car other than aux gauges. Don't think you'll need 130 amps unless you're running a big amp or electric fans or something like that.

[Nacho-RT74]

Yes… the specs on alts is the alt rpms, not engine.

Note: if you get a constant Charge reading, something is going wrong or you are getting a similar discharge rate just right before the charge status. The perfect system should show ZERO reading in ammeter most of the time as posible.

[71se3834v]

Sept 8, 2023 15:57:55 GMT -5 Nacho-RT74 said:

Yes… the specs on alts is the alt rpms, not engine.

Note: if you get a constant Charge reading, something is going wrong or you are getting a similar discharge rate just right before the charge status. The perfect system should show ZERO reading in ammeter most of the time as posible.

If you are referring to my statement, I meant I am still maintaining a healthy voltage at the battery with a load on the system. The alt is keeping up with the electrical needs (charging or amperage output) and the battery is not discharging like you are always talking about which leads to the problems with the wiring overheating. I have bypassed the ampmeter and I'm running a voltmeter. Before I did the modifications and installed an alternator with a higher amperage output I could watch my voltage drop at idle with the ac on.