EGADS i need new wires

[snibbs]

cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOPAR-DODGE-CHRYSLER-318-340-360-HEI-DISTRIBUTOR-8913M_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem260338921561QQitemZ260338921561QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

ok i bought this lil gem, and it says i can dump the brain box, ballast resistor etc etc. it came quickly but without any directions and i havent had any luck getting info from them< caveat emptor> a black and red wire that attach to coil is what the web site says any guesses on what goes where.. Sooooo I was out there today puttering around with my baby < 72 se> and i have seriously underestimated the wiring issues 37 yr old wire is brittle its showing copper all over, and there is a bunch of really half assed splices i dont wish to use the language it would require to properly describe them duct tape is the best of them.. bare wire twists i could cry.. ok i did.......
Now i am not concerned at all about factory correct, and i am really too poor to even consider a new harness or anything else new like say.... socks.... but i do have a large roll of about 14 gauge ground wire a pleasing green...

So i know i can get some color code stickers for cheap so i am going to run all green with color code tabs to replace this wire.
the alternator and engine tranny is transplanted from an 89 b 350 a much bigger electrical load on that puppy so its a huge alternator 100 amps or better about an 8 gauge wire coming off it as well as 2 field terminals and an 8 gauge ground all in one nifty moulded connector...

I have a new voltage reg that i am going to install,
i have the wiring diagrams
i would like to change ammeter to volt meter as i have read on here...
I am not going to hook up all the wires just floating around. ie the washer fluid pump or anything i dont have or absolutely need
I want to just cut what wires i dont need anymore cut and tape up the ends untill i decide< say june> i need a/c or a winshield washer

Any suggestions outside of a handy fire extinguisher to get this bad puppy up and running new dist hei/ new voltage reg 100 amp alt... i need to get it up and running asap and i can fine tune and finish details as time permits< lifetime project>
Any suggestions would be much appreciated keeping in mind i cant buy anything
Snibbs

[quapman]

I could probably donate an old harness if you pay the shipping. I'm a little lost on that funky distributor. Their website sucks, too.

I'll take a peek and let you know.

Steve

[snibbs]

Thats VERY generous quapman < thank you> but I will pass on your kind offer right at this point I dont mind using my green wire, now my 5 yr old son might want to rewire it in a decade or so. < hes going to tire of sanding long before then> that website does suck and trying to get any info out of them is like pulling teeth, i am going to call AGAIN tomorrow. i am fumbling around with the wiring diagrams right now my main concern is getting the alternator wired in properly that frankenstein distributor in and then the too large radiator in and then TA da turn the key.. more to it then that but thats about where i stand, or actually lay... under the car

[quapman]

I'm gonna guess that the Frankenstien distributor will need power feed (BLUE wire from factory harness), then two wires to the coil (I'm hoping for three total).

Blue & green field wires from alternator go to the voltage regulator (I think).

Big black (what were they thinking...should be RED in the "normal" world) wire goes to pos. side of battery.

NACHO is the man with the electrical skills and diagrams. Nacho? Nacho?

Good luck!

[snibbs]

over the river and through the woods the rotted wires go... i have a red and black only that come off the dist, < frankenstributor>supposed to go to coil.. i am guessing red to + but who knows,
original purpose of ballast resister was to limit voltage to points and or brain box right? so its history if i can beleive the web site
I am wondering if it matters what field goes where from the alt??? ie if they were switched would it matter??? would something disappear in a cloud of acrid smoke?
I am a lil concerend that the hot wire coming off the alternator is soo large on b350 swap in alt < about 8 or possibily 6 gauge> and the old black wire is maybe 12 or 14...
if i can get it to run by replacing critical wires independant of old harness.. i can deal with the ancient wiring as time and needs arise
fire ext in car is a must, battery quick disconnect prolly a good idea.. i dont want to neglect my baby BUT:
I am on the verge of firing up the greenhouse for the spring vegetable garden and that takes time and effort to keep up 1/2 acre of veges and the aspargus bed and the rhubarb bed and the wheat and millet field and... well you get the idea tempus fugit

[Nacho-RT74]

I guess the same... red is power ( from blue wire ign key if you ask me ) and black to coil... that's what logic says

about wiring upgrades SPECIALLY AND MANDATORY with that big alternator:

www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

Ballast resistor has been since the first use without ign modules, limit the power to Coil and save from overheating. as far more heat on engine bay, then power to coil is limited by ballast. Hot gas doens't need to much spark anyway to blow, like when is cold.

then with first Ing modules came out with 5 pins got an extra input power from ballast ( on dual ballast resistors/4 prongs setups ) I guess for same reasons above, but after some years they were modified to 4 pins and didn't need anymore teh secondary reisitance.

doesn't matter wich wire to what field

wiring is not really hard, just needs patiente.

on tech section there are some nice diagrams made and post

[snibbs]

thanks nacho I'll definately run a second wire at the very least on the black wire, drawings and explanations were just what I needed!!

[Nacho-RT74]

you're welcome!

some ppl is againts the use of the ammeter and is logical if you don't use it right and you don't have a balanced system. Yes is some dangerous, but with everything working properlly there is not a problem.

then there is another solutions like www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

where some of what they say is partially true but not everything.

another solution ois run a direct wire between alt styd and starter relay stud, but that will bypass the ammeter function too.

At the end what I exposed is trying to keep everything on dash working like factory designed.