Body work plan on 72 Charger

[jcclark]

So I have one driving Charger with a Vinyl Roof, its got bubbles underneath, it has some rust in lower quarters, the upper sill? just below the rear window has a lot of rust holes. I do not need a perfect restoration, this car will be a driver Nascar clone. What should be my plan of attack. I do have a 72 donor car, but isn't this sill possible to recreate a one off of, since I am sure there are no replacements avalaible. I figured I would attack the rust problems from the top down. And what might I expect when I remove the vinyl roof? Will I be forced to replace the vinyl for a decent finish? Pics Later

PS, I think the 71-72's are the best looking Mopars, hence here I am #yesnod#

[jcclark]

Here's pic of rear vwindow

[Deleted]

Let me preface my answer by telling you that I am not a body man and
I did not stay in a Holiday Inn last night. ;D Maybe Keith (aka Moparmadness) will see this later on and be able to give you more professional/expert advice.

Your picture really did not do much to show the extent of the damage.

Before you develop your plan of attack, it would probably be best to get the top fully taken off and the rear glass pulled to fully evaluate the damage. The rust in the dutchman panel very well may extend into the window channel. If you have a lot of bubbling under the top, it very well may be ugly when you get the top removed. A professional may very well tell you that you "need" a new roof. However, I understand that installing a new roof may be a. beyond your capabilities or b. beyond the financial restraints of the project. If that be the case, you could either repair it to the best of your ability or perhaps look for a better shell to start the project with.

My 72 Rallye has a rusty roof under the vinyl. My plan is to do 100% of the car myself. I have deep reservations about even attempting to replace the roof. I will more than likely attempt to patch it up. I figure that my work will not have to be perfect as I will be putting
another top on which should seemingly forgive some imperfections.
My best friend attempted to weld patches in his roof and it did not work out very well. The roof is now severely warped.

Did the rust in your dutchman allow water into the trunk and cause rot in the trunk and 1/4`s?

If you can, add some more pics, to fully show your issues. It will help others to better assist you formulate your plan of attack.

[moparguy01]

That vinyl top needs to come off, and I can just about guarantee you that you will need to remove that rear glass. Then you need to find out where the rust ends. screwdrivers work good, as do cheap pick hammers from the 20 dollar body hammer kits they sell at harbor freight. just beat on it until you no longer break through. its crude but it works. then you have to either get a new dutchmans panel or build one, its a relatively flat peice with only a slight curve, they really arent hard to build if you cant find one. your going to have to look all over that car for rust, cause i get the feeling thats not going to be the worse of it. You also have to stop the rust underneath, cause i can also tell you there is rust underneath that area. id suggest getting that area of the car media blasted, if not the whole car. then spray the freshly blasted metal with a good epoxy primer, then start replacing metal. make sure to put a coating on the UNDERSIDE of the panel you install, cause chances are you will not be able to get to it afterwards. I usually use a good rust inhibitor primer (i've actually tested the rustoleum rusty metal primer you can get at any hardware store and had very good luck) so i spray that on the panel with the exception of the last 3" of so of the panel where I have to weld. there i use a good weld through primer.

Hopefully that helps. and yes i do this for a living.

[moparmadness]

Don't for get to KILL the Rust.
The surrounding areas or where you cut out the bad, in order to stop it....it needs a Zinc Phospate coating. Buy some Ox-Solv from www.eastwood.com it is about $30 per gallon or buy the spray version. It boils the area and turns white while it is boiling but when it sits for a 1/2 day, you can wipe it off and the areas will be Grey. Then to Seal it use POR-15.
I have a Charger here that was painted 9 years ago...some serious rust issues.....you would never know it...and it is metal..not bondo.

[moparguy01]

i guess i dont buy into the whole POR15 and all that crap. now a rust inhibitor primer i understand, but a converter? i guess i dont beleive in that. i sandblast it all then primer it. i dont trust snake oyl type products