Left (Driver side) Turn Signal not working

[rkh17]

Right turn signal works fine, hear flasher relay clicking...
Left (drives side) turn signal is not working.

When I start the car the drivers side turn signal on the hood comes on steady. According to the manual this indicates a failing bulb.

Replaced both drivers side rear turn bulbs with no change, then noticed that the drivers side parking lamp was also a turn signal and wasn't working correctly.

After changing the parking lamp when I start the car now both hood signals are dark, but when trying to use the left signal, the hood signal comes on steady again. Right turn signal continues to work fine.

Are there any other bulbs that can be failing that I've missed? I've done both rear bulbs and the parking lamp. Could it actually be the hood signal?

Thanks,

-Rob

[DynoDave]

Rob,

So your saying when you turn on your left turn signal, the only bulb that lights up is the one on the top of the fender?

[rkh17]

Yes, and that bulb cones on solid, no blinking... Should I be replacing this bulb as well?

-R

[charger440sixpac]

The flashers in our Mopars are designed to flash using the current flowing thru them. This means that for them to switch properly, sufficent current is required and it usually takes only one bulb to go out in the circuit to drop the current draw enough to stop the switching action of the flasher. My understanding is this is intentional and meant to inform you when a bulb goes out so it can be replaced. That said, my money is on a missing or burned out bulb (or bulbs) somewhere.

[Nacho-RT74]

cluster and fender bulbs are not enough load to make the flasher work. mostly sure you have burnt bulbs or damaged conectors or dirty sockets

[DynoDave]

Jan 9, 2012 20:29:57 GMT -5 charger440sixpac said:

...sufficent current is required and it usually takes only one bulb to go out in the circuit to drop the current draw enough to stop the switching action of the flasher.

Correct...you have to heat (through electrical current draw) this bi-metallic strip...when it get's hot, it curls a little bit, opening the contacts. It then cools, and closes the contacts. This also creates the clicking sounds you hear. So as you stated...not enough load (other working bulbs/circuits), not enough heat on the bi-metalic strip.

[rkh17]

Ok, quick update on this issue: still having the problem. Replaced the bulb on the hood signal and I have the same results. Hood lamp comes on steady, no flashing. I was going to just try the flasher, but based on the last couple of posts it sounds like if that flasher is working for the right side it's good enough for the left side.

So what I've done pretty much covers the burnt bulb part of it. I guess I need to look at damanged connections and dirty sockets.

Thanks for the tips so far...

I'm lost in a maze of wires..

-R

[DynoDave]

Ugh! I was hoping, when you did post again right away, that the problem had been fixed.

So if you pull a bulb at the back, and put a test light on it...can you find an on/off 12v signal coming through? If not, trace it back. If yes, then check into how these are getting a ground???

[Nacho-RT74]

if you don't have brakes on rear left side, mostly sure you won't have left side turns ever. Check for that.

must to note, front and rear cirtuits run on diff circuits internally on turning switch to separate brakes to rear from front, since brake lights signal also gets into the turning switch. BUT WIRING RELATED IS THE SAME. Thats a good way to check if bulbs and wires are in good working conditions at least on rear

[rkh17]

DynoDave,

Hey Dave, I'm getting back on this after a long winter (yes my garage is just large enough to hold the car over the winter, no room to work on it) .

I was up at Carlisle this weekend and a mopar vendor said it sounds like it is most likely a ground issue. Gonna take a peek again tomorrow. I'm looking to replace the fuse block and wiring harness to clean up under the dash (and hopefully fix the brake light issue) so I can get back to focusing on the turn signal. Any pointers on getting that harness out? I have another post open...

Thanks,

-Rob