Nacho,
Aside from the "spin test", is the clutch fan keeping your engine cool?
mmm... good question... dunno...
You know... this is "funny" Since I used to read the standard cluster, I BARELLY got the temp reading up to second step of the gage. As soon I changed to Rallye cluster, the reading changed INMEDIATLY in some cases up to half of scale. Both using same fan clutch the car had since I bought, and it was HEAVY DUTY... Stock one ?
Now, I don't know if fan clutch got damaged at the same time I replaced cluster. I got my car parked for 6 month or so in the process, so fan clutch could got damaged meanwhile I was making all the upgrades I made on that period.
Then got a hayden clucth, HEAVY DUTY too... got aprox same readings, maybe a little bit lower. Just worked fine by 3 or 4 years. replaced for another one, but standard ( couldn't find a HD ) I think I got some variation, specially when turning on AC and/or at High speeds, getting higher readings. On my Maracaibo city trip, the gage got max reading.
then got this MP unit, that in hands got a satisfactory drag, but not now on car
At the end... answer to your question... is the engine being kept cool ? don't really know what is cool now.
------------
On another note... removed the fuel sender... FLOATER has some HAIR CRACKS AND GOT FULL OF GASS, was sank into the gas tank. I KNOW I HAVE SAVED MY ORIGINAL FLOATER from the factory fuel sender SOMEWHERE but dunno remember where, so had to try to fix it... solding gun and lead/tin. After many tryes it looks I got to fix it. I'd HARD TO TRY TO FILL SOMETHING what needs to be TOTALLY sealed, since when heating the brass, air inside get expanded and BLOWS AWAY THE TIN... it was hard.
Then I wanted to be THE SMART GUY OF ALL THAT I KNOW. I was getting quite often ( maybe after a hard curve or heavy bumps ) some missread that did need a kick on the tank to get the reading back, so wanted to check that. Maybe some misscontact allong the rheostat inside the housing. Dissasembled and tried to get an uniform "drag" allong the rheostat surface... IS REALLY HARD TO DO IT on a replacement piece. I was able to do it on the factory one ( before got completelly damaged ).
when I though I made a good job, after many tries, assemblied back and OOOOPS... broke one of the housing tabs DARN!!!! well, is still there but already cracked.
Mounted on the gas tank, and got a reading HIGHER than I calculated I really had. I calculated around 1/5, and got a 1/3 reading now. Went to a gas station to get it full again and check that... AS EXPECTED ( but unwhised ) needle weeeent away of the full reading
so, now... need to calibrate the rheostat point again, what is mounted on floater arm BUT ONE ( Or maybe two if not all three ) tab of the housing is cracked and won't be able to be bent again.
I got same problem about broken tabs ( but not at the first opportunity ) on the original factory one and fixed with a screw and a nut through the housing assembly, but the point tab shape gave me room to mount the screw throught the housing without meet the point/tab. This is diff shape and dunno if will be able to do it.
Beside that. THIS FUEL SENDER UNIT IS JUST 3 YEARS OLD
Thinking on get a new sender unit, but have to invent how to pay it from here.