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Post by pouria on Jan 3, 2016 11:51:11 GMT -5
I will get the lifters from my friend here, 3.5$/pc! Thanks for your comment, I will finish this purchase today.
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Post by pouria on Jan 13, 2016 7:25:26 GMT -5
I got my cam on saturday: I also took those Badger pistons and ordered other parts I need for my build including the 360 heads. Meanwhile, I couldn't find Felpro head gaskets here but could find NOS original Mopar gaskets: Are these OK to buy?
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,160
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Post by DynoDave on Jan 13, 2016 12:31:31 GMT -5
Happy NPD (New Parts Day)! Wow, you really dress up nice to celebrate NPD, dodn't ya?
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Post by pouria on Jan 13, 2016 14:10:06 GMT -5
NPD, haha. I hadn't heard it before thank you for your happiness message. This is how I am dressed at work. I drove directly from office to my friends home as soon as he arrived from the airport, I couldn't wait anymore Any comments on those mopar gaskets?
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Post by 1ol74charger4me on Jan 14, 2016 0:32:35 GMT -5
Those gaskets should be fine. They may not be a ready to go head gasket, meaning they may need some kind of sealer on them but they should work fine. You will just have to research what kind they are. Funny to find out Mopar owners are the same all over the world. I have been known to leave work early to go home if I know I have fun stuff waiting on me. Sometimes my wife hides it on me and tells me it didn't come just to see the look on my face. BTW that tree looks like it needs water.
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Post by pouria on Jan 14, 2016 1:50:24 GMT -5
Yesssss, we all have a common thing and that's Mopar! What do you mean I have to research what kind they are? How many different kinds are existing? Would you please tell me? I have absolutely no information on this matter.
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Post by 1ol74charger4me on Jan 15, 2016 0:53:26 GMT -5
Some headgaskets like Felpro have a layered gasket so they don't need a sealer put on them to seal. Some older type head gaskets like the steel (and copper ones I think) have to be coated with a sealer like copper coat in order to seal. The Felpro is a non retorque type which is torque it down once and done and others have a retorque sequence after it has been running. Thats why Felpros have such a good rep. You will know by looking at them if they are coated and multi layer or not. The multi layer also helps to even out block and head surface irregularities which helps if you don't surface the head and block when rebuilding. If I haven't confused you enough let me know.
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Post by pouria on Jan 16, 2016 9:49:07 GMT -5
You have been very clear and thanks for the professional explanation. Well, I had another NPD today: I took those Badger pistons, both 030 and 040 sizes for 190$ total. I believe the 040s will help me someday: Also I got main and rod bearings, 060! The crank is 040 now and needs to be ground again: Below is the cam bearing set: Meanwhile, I need some urgent help. My friend who has the shop is suggesting me to convert the "floating" type rods and pins to the "pressed" type. He has a set of "pressed" type rods out of a 1976, 360 engine and is offering the set to me for 24$ (3$/pc). I have my own rods with 3418645 casting number and the rods my friend is offering are also 3418645. Kindly send me your comments on this matter. Another issue I need help is the piston to bore clearance. I took the block to the machine shop on Thursday and he is waiting for the pistons to start the job. He told me the proper clearance would be 0.006 inch while I could read in the Chilton book that the factory recommended clearance is 0.0005 to 0.0015! I am confused because the difference is too much to let me close my eyes! Would you please help me survive from this bad situation?
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Post by 1ol74charger4me on Jan 17, 2016 11:27:34 GMT -5
The crank, WOW, .060 is a lot on a crank. Especially a cast crank. I would have it meticulously checked out for cracks, straightness and thrust. Then I would be careful about how I treated it with that 4 speed. Looks like you got some good quality parts. Don't spend the money on the rods. You have the best you can buy right now. Have them resized and add some ARP brand rod bolts and they will outlive that crank. I would only replace the rods if they need to be rebushed on the small end and that is expensive or can not be done there. I see they are the same part number but yours should have a bronze bushing in the small end. Now you need a oil pump and some good heads. I would try to find the clearance that is recommended for that piston, not that motor. I would always go to the low side of the clearance, but with these pistons not being a true cast piston, I'm not sure. Forged pistons will knock when cold with too much clearance but not enough clearance with cast will be too tight in the bore and tear up the rings and cylinder wall, not too mention the drag on the motor. I would say if he is boring with a boring bar go the .006 but if he is boring with a tight tolerance machine, I would go .008 just to make sure the block is not stressed or the crank stressed in any way. Factory tolerances were a wide margin because all they wanted it to do was live long enough to get out of warranty and spend the least amount of time building the motor. They also probably used a cast iron ring set which is more tolerant. I think 340s used a moly set of rings though. I would recommend a moly set because it will last longer. I always lean toward making a project live a long life than towards squeezing out the horsepower. Do you still have the windage tray? Should have got a cheap double roller timing chain with that Summit Cam. Sorry, I wasn't thinking that far ahead. This is actually fun. I like any project in general but love to be on the brainstorming end of a engine build. I will miss that final fire up but maybe you can post a video. Be sure and have your lifter bores checked for cracks and tolerances. I have been seeing quite a few people have problems in this sometimes overlooked area.
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Post by pouria on Jan 17, 2016 16:17:35 GMT -5
Thank you for all your comments. Yes, the crank is near the end of its life but I looked around and couldn't find 340 crank at all. I will have it magnafluxed for cracks and then let the machine shop to chck the straightness. The rods need to be rebushed, this is not expensive nor hard to be done here. I will buy the bushings tomorrow. I already got the oil pump as well as some other parts like alternator, will post the photos. ARP bolts are not available here and I have no way except using the stock bolts. Regarding the clearance, what the book is saying is much lower than what the machine shop and you are recommending. It is only 0.0005 to 0.0015! I am not sure if those badger pistons are forged, are they? I think I have better use a micrometer to measure the diameter of the pistons first, maybe they are already suitable for a 4.07 inch bore size and have built-in clearance, huh? I also got timing chain and gear, the photos will come tomorrow. My friend has "Perfect Circle" rings and will hand them to me tomorrow! Are they moly rings or cast ones? I asked the machine shop to polish the lifter bores for me and check for the roundness and size. I am still at the very beginning of this project. Many more photos will come and I need your comments on every step because it is my first build ever. I will take video from the moment I want to pull the trigger for sure, all the moments will be shared here.
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