DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,157
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Post by DynoDave on Apr 14, 2020 13:47:11 GMT -5
You can get the radiator sticker from Performance Car Graphics. Are you gonna re-core or get a new radiator? So they do. They also have the "For optimum performance..." decal, my sunvisor cat, converter decal, my Electronic Spark Control" decal (I have an older repro, but I think this one might look better), and the intake manifold silencer insulation kit. I'm making a list... Thanks Hank! Thank you. Just back from dropping the radiator off at the shop. He's going to check it out, and call with a price. It won't be cheap I'm sure, but good work never is.
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,157
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Post by DynoDave on Apr 15, 2020 15:11:53 GMT -5
Was going to dig into the battery from the bottom yesterday. Even started to center punch the holes I was going to drill in the bottom of the case. But I thought I should make sure it was completely dead. So I checked it with a multi-meter, and the darned thing is still making volts! 2.6-2.7v to be exact. Lacking a carbon pile load tester to drain off the remaining voltage, I added an 1157-style bulb on some test leads. Not enough voltage to illuminate it, but hoped by giving the current a load, that I could drain it. After sitting like that all night, I'm happy to say that as of this morning, I'm down to 00.8v, not even enough to create a spark when I jumper the two terminals together. So I think I'm going to call that good enough, and dig into it tonight.
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Post by brigond on Apr 15, 2020 19:05:53 GMT -5
Hi Dave I'm trying to figure out what you're doing with the battery. I'm guessing you're going to use the old outer case over a modern battery?
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Post by 71se3834v on Apr 15, 2020 20:02:30 GMT -5
You can get the radiator sticker from Performance Car Graphics. Are you gonna re-core or get a new radiator? So they do. They also have the "For optimum performance..." decal, my sunvisor cat, converter decal, my Electronic Spark Control" decal (I have an older repro, but I think this one might look better), and the intake manifold silencer insulation kit. I'm making a list... Thanks Hank! Thank you. Just back from dropping the radiator off at the shop. He's going to check it out, and call with a price. It won't be cheap I'm sure, but good work never is. I think Classic Industries also sells those stickers if you care to price compare. That's were I bought all mine along with other things. Just to prepare you my re-core was $400 for a 17.5" x 26 1/8" x 2" core which was supposed to be extra capacity.
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,157
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Post by DynoDave on Apr 16, 2020 7:28:51 GMT -5
Hi Dave I'm trying to figure out what you're doing with the battery. I'm guessing you're going to use the old outer case over a modern battery? Yes, that's right. I'm hoping to put an Odyssey PC925T inside the old case. PC925TI think Classic Industries also sells those stickers if you care to price compare. That's were I bought all mine along with other things. I will take a look there as well. Just to prepare you my re-core was $400 for a 17.5" x 26 1/8" x 2" core which was supposed to be extra capacity. Yeah, it's not gonna be cheap. Thanks for the warning.
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,157
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Post by DynoDave on Apr 16, 2020 18:53:35 GMT -5
Started to cut the case open. Painting mask, rubber gloves, safety glasses, hat. Glad there was no one to take a picture of me. I had bought this HF tool when they were on some super sale...was less than $10 as I recall. Never had a need for it until now. Cuts pretty good. I'm not so hot at cutting a straight line, even when using the edge of the tool along the edge of the battery as a guide. Not quite sure how that happens. Then the bit snapped. Of course, in our current C-19 world...do I have a spare? I do not. Are any of the stores that would have one open? They are not. So I guess I'm done with battery work for the night. As a note to anyone who might do this same job later....the bottom of this case is not the same material as the sides. Almost seems like a poured material of some sort. When center punching it, or drill holes, it chips and flakes apart to a small degree. Makes a fair amount of dust when cutting it, so I kept a vacuum handy. Doesn't smell too good either.
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,157
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Post by DynoDave on Apr 17, 2020 19:10:20 GMT -5
A less than wonderful garage day. Broke another rotozip bit, but had purchased 4! Got around the perimeter of the bottom of the case. Tried to leave an edge to put some screws into later for a new bottom plate, but I think that's going to have to come off, which isn't going to be easy now. Two corners of the case cracked, one quite seriously. I hope it holds together through the rest of the process of gutting it. Thank God I have a Thermoguard to cover it. And is it just the lead and acid fumes, or did none of my photos come out in-focus this time?
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Post by 71se3834v on Apr 17, 2020 20:01:06 GMT -5
Is that debri from the plates disintegrating?
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Post by hanks73340 on Apr 18, 2020 5:46:23 GMT -5
Is that debri from the plates disintegrating? I sure hope not. That could be a very bad issue should it ever crack open underneath and then spread around the engine compartment before you realize it.......
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,157
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Post by DynoDave on Apr 18, 2020 10:43:49 GMT -5
Yes Jeff. I'm not a battery chemist, but they always taught us in auto class that battery sulfation builds up and settles to the bottom of the battery. This was one of the secrets of the Delco batteries back in the day. They wrapped each plate in a permeable envelope. The envelope would capture and hold the sulfation, preventing shorting between plates, but allowing the electrolyte to flow between them. In the early pictures in this thread, looking through the vent holes at the top of the battery, you can see a light about of sulfation, but mostly you can see the individual plates. Here at the bottom of the battery, well, that's all sulfation. And some of the baking soda that I poured in mixed with water. I think that soda made it through to the bottom more on one side than the other, as one side appears very white Vs. the other. But I'm not sure what all I'm seeing. All I can tell you is it's a mess! Remember, this battery is 15-20 years old, and has been electrically dead (in useful voltages) for many, many years. It has gone though hot summers and near freezing winters with no charge...ideal conditions for creating sulfation. So it's condition, while gross (for lack of a better technical word), is not surprising. Looking at one of these now. More money (of course) but more cranking amps. Antigravity Batteries
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