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Post by 71greengo on Aug 25, 2009 19:57:02 GMT -5
Posted some pictures in my 71Greengo Restoration Thread, this section. (The inside door jambs and under hood of car now painted body color).......
I phoned AMD for approx time frame for new front valance and rear dual exhaust valance...told me another two months.....I will wait for them listed at $250 US each..not too bad
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Post by 71383bee on Aug 25, 2009 21:50:33 GMT -5
Busy weekend for me. Since the Nats I have put on a new MC Added spring shims and replaced some U bolts AND... MOST importantly switched to the CORRECT taillights for a painter bumper Super Bee!!!! Very Cool!!!!
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Aug 26, 2009 13:27:27 GMT -5
no way, imposible to remove the broken stud. Will need to mount everything but that barrel nut. neither found the exhaust leaks repair patch, so went with PC Faherenheit epoxy glue to fill the crack untill be able to make complete the exhaust system www.pcepoxy.com/puttyepoxies/pcfahrenheit.php
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Post by Jer on Aug 26, 2009 16:18:38 GMT -5
....Just some pictures of the inside door jambs and under hood of car now painted body color.......I phoned AMD for approx time frame for new front valance and rear dual exhaust valance...told me another two months.....I will wait for them listed at $250 US each..not too bad...... Hey Steve!! Thanks for moving those those pics over to your "71 Greengo Restoration" thread.... #2Thumbs# #2Thumbs# (I bumped it to the front page so you can find it more easily!!) ;D
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Aug 28, 2009 16:37:40 GMT -5
new 2.5" exhaust from end to end... that hurt my wallet SERIOUSLLY, but was necesary. Pipe began to break seriouslly and flange totally damaged, so instead JUST repair that, upgraded from 2.25" to 2.5" once.
keep stock muflers
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buzzrider
Settling In
496 Stroker, 4-speed
Posts: 249
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Post by buzzrider on Aug 29, 2009 20:58:41 GMT -5
Today I went out and my cousin and I fixed the leaking fuel line. The hose connecting the sending unit to the fuel line was dry rotted and fuel was leaking from a tear in the hose. We replaced the hose and this also solved the fuel pressure problem. I only had about 3 psi on the gauge before the swap. Now it shows 6+ constant. I am sure air was getting in the old line and not allowing the pressure to build. We also moved the fabricated radiator brackets to the front side of the radiator support, making the radiator stand straight up and down. Then we went around and double checked the plug wires to make sure they were all the way on. We also took a ball peen hammer to the air cleaner. The base was resting on the float adjustment screws and not sitting all the way down on the carb. A couple dings with the hammer and the air cleaner fits perfect. Then we had to adjust the alternator. The pulley is sitting out just a smidge too far and the belt squeals if you rap the throttle. It can be fixed. I just have to take some material off the end of the back spacer so the alternator can bet set back a little.
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brock
Major Website Supporter
MEGA KILOVOLT-MASTER
Posts: 3,459
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Post by brock on Aug 30, 2009 1:26:44 GMT -5
Sounds like good progress
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Post by mrwoolery on Sept 1, 2009 23:09:11 GMT -5
'71 R/T doors are getting chemically stripped now. They should be ready to be picked up this Saturday. I'll drop off the air grabber hood for stripping when I pick up the doors.
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Sept 2, 2009 13:29:54 GMT -5
got an used Prop valve, and made to gravity bleed. does look FINALLY WILL WORK AS SHOULD BE!!! I hope so. Cluster light turned off and never came on when pressed the brakes... still need to eat the streets with the new/used unit ( from a 77 or 78 Dodge Aspen donor )... in a few minutes will go to the alignment shop and will be time to test.
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pilk
New Member
1972 Charger Hardtop
Posts: 27
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Post by pilk on Sept 4, 2009 13:35:20 GMT -5
I'll give you a hint: It involves stimulating the Georgia economy and transfering wealth ;D
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