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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Mar 24, 2020 13:01:05 GMT -5
the cancelling cam SHOULD be the same for everyone, but can't tell if also for the cornering lamps kind, but since your car doesn't have those shouldn't be a problem you can jump those wires temporally for driving but when you press brakes mostly sure front turnings will turn on too while hazzards and turning are in rest ( off ) position. Jimsautopars shows on his website a thin king hazzard knob turning switch available... but they are not good rated on customer service for us www.jimsautoparts.com/electric.htmI don't think cheap thought. They didn't want to post the price LOL. and got pictured the generic replacement with big knob easy to find on $40-50 rate but on $130 LOL |
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Post by Charlie on Mar 24, 2020 20:58:26 GMT -5
Got my new cam at the parts house and came home to tear it apart. It wasn't as bad as I was expecting, but then, I did not have to deal with snaking wires. So it turns out... this is what I've got... www.autopartsdb.net/assets/images/ProductImg/M/MD2085.JPG with the yellow cam. This switch has been replaced (as has a lot of stuff on this car). I figured it was new when I went to unplug it. The wire insulation coloring at the plug looked "fresh" compared to the socket side of the connection. Also, like in the picture in the above link, there are numbers printed on the plug in the same exact manner. The number is different, but the letter C is the same and there's the same number of digits. They weren't printing numbers on parts like this in 1971 for sure! When I examined the cam, all looked well. I removed the cam and gave it a good look. All looked fine. Then I started probing around with a meter to see what I had. After plugging the connector back in, I found I had lights. Then I played with the hazard switch and found that to be the problem. Wiggle the switch a little with my foot on the brake and found that the lights would flicker. Once I had the lights on steady, I started checking for continuity to see what needed to be connected at the switch to give me lights. So, looking at the switch in place, the white wire (lower innermost to the center) is hot. For the brake lights to work, that wire must connect with the innermost white wire just above... and it should when the hazards are OFF. I connected a jumper across there and found that with my foot on the brake, I could wiggle the switch and keep lights. So, I got my soldering gun and soldered a jumper between the two white wires for now so that I know I'll always have brake lights. How does affect the rest of the system you ask? I figured you would. If you pull the hazard switch out with this jumper in place, the hazards will work in the front, but not in the rear. If your foot is on the brake while the hazards are on, the front lights will flash and the rear will remain on without flashing as long as your foot is on the brake. Turn signals work as they should. So, for now, I have good brake lights... but no rear hazards... which is not a concern for me. This will buy me some time till I shop around for a correct replacement. I am going to try to avoid buying one of these goddamn "made in Taiwan" generic replacements. This is a perfect example of how crappy the ones made elsewhere are. I had a similar situation in my 77 F150. Replaced the AC vacuum switches... lasted about a year and now they need replacing again! I replaced the turn signal switch in my 79 F100... feels like crap! You can certainly feel the difference in the quality. Thanks for the links and insight. It was certainly a big help! |
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Mar 25, 2020 7:27:05 GMT -5
As far I recall the cam makes contact over somekind of spring points system which routes the diff powers inputs ( hazzard flasher, turning flasher and brakes ) to the diff corners, so its a matrix to spread the necessary input to the correct ouputs.
So, in rest position, the brakes input ( white ) it makes constant contact with rears ( dark green and brown ) being the brake pedal switch the real switch on this.
When you activate hazzards, the white wire source is cut and 4 corners are linked to the pink wire coming from flasher which is allways hot. As soon the power feeds all the bulbs. This load made by bulb is what makes the flasher goes on and off by the heat on bimetallic
Same about turning lights on red wire but just in ACC or RUN ign switch position. Turning however keeps brakes available for the opposite side.
So on the brakes issue I'm pretty sure the spring contact MAYBE built into the hazzard knob switch which must get same kind of matrix could lost the tension for the white wire source, or mabe for both rears. I actually have dissasembled this piece once but never analized. I fortunatelly found a NOS correct 804 switch for my car ( big hazzard knob ) in $40 around 8 years ago when there was still enough stock of them on NOS market. On those days the thin hazzard Knob ( 70/71 ) was already hard to find and if you did, on $150 rate.
Now, if your car got replaced the switch I guess you got trimmed the hazzard knob to fit ? if so, and being is not the original one, I would simply replace it, and would replace it for one without the cornering lamps since you don't need that pigtail.
Rockauto has it in $26,79. Of course, generic replacement and sure chinesse, but is the one available and the same one is being sold on ebay on $40-60 rate. With big hazzard knob
If it was the original one maybe will give a try for the fix.
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Mar 25, 2020 8:00:33 GMT -5
a friend of mine in Vzla got one of those Chinesse parts ( in Vzla, but we got same parts than you in USA ) and installed. It didn't worked initially and it tooks us 2 hours chatting via Whassapp to find the reason. Since I still had the original one from my car at home, we tracked wire by wire from end to end and we found couple of the wires riveted at the hazzard swicth section were turned around... so he had to invert those at the plug ( easier than relocate the riveted ends ) to get it correctly working on this pic, the blue and white wires at hazzard switch section were turned around... web pics shows like this and the switch he got were the ones  |
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Mar 25, 2020 8:10:39 GMT -5
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Post by Charlie on Mar 25, 2020 8:25:47 GMT -5
My car has a fat hazard switch. As far as I can tell, there was no trimming on the knob. Everything looks as it should. Does not have the long tube as pictured earlier for the ignition light. Perhaps that got changed halfway thru the 1971 model year?
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Mar 25, 2020 8:44:08 GMT -5
wow... and it fits without any trim for the opening on collar or courtesy light ? That's weird...
Yes it seems the setup was changed along the 71 year... or maybe previous owner got changed the collar for the lates system.
I'm trying to upload some images on how is the setup for the fat knob but the hosting service I use is under mantenience now... will try later.
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Post by Charlie on Mar 25, 2020 12:31:39 GMT -5
I know a lot of stuff has been changed on the car, but it was done by a dealer in Denver while they had it. Prior to the dealer, the car was still in the hands of the original owners. After the husband passed away, the wife sold the car... that was about 4 years ago. A dealer bought it with mileage in the 70K range, pulled it all apart, freshened everything up, and put it all back together... replacing many items with new. Apparently, the turn signal switch was in the list of replaced items. The key light looks to be original as if it's always been there. It's my understanding that one of the ways you can tell if it's an early 71 or late 71 is by the seat belts. Early 71 seat belts are supposedly the same color as the interior, and late 71 seat belts are black. I've got the black ones... and just earlier I discovered a lot of mildew on the passenger belt! LOL guess I need to clean that up! I will likely be getting one of those NOS Mopar switches in the near future. I return to sea in a couple of weeks (provided this virus mess doesn't get any worse) and will return around June 1st... and will likely look at ordering one the week before coming home. Yesterday, I ordered an idler pulley/bracket for the fan belt... hope it will be here by Saturday. It's been screeching on the highway as I reach 70 mph... very embarrassing. Can't get this part at a local parts house, and I'm sure this new one is likely China made.  Today I am thinking about rebuilding the original Holley 4 bbl... comments will be in another thread. Today I had the front rotors turned and rear drums replaced. Wow! What a difference THAT made! So much better! Previously, the entire car shook violently if I didn't ease into the pedal. Now, the car stops nice and smooth at any speed. |
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Mar 26, 2020 5:51:44 GMT -5
Ok, so if you got key courtesy light but is not the long curved one, it means you have the later kind with bigger opening column collar, either changed at dealer or from plant which could be logical being the build date. Bulb is accesible from outside just removing the cap.
I still can't get uploaded the pics at my hosting service.
Laters 71s got also the hood grill with small gap in the middle and buckets back release button small and chromed. Also seat back panels in one piece covering the hinges while earlier panels requires an extra covers for the hinges ( metallic ) and buttons are longer. Everything of this came in that was on 72s
isn't the pulley serviceable ? ( sorry, 73 and lates didn't get the water pump iddler pulley, the belt setup is different on these ) maybe you could just replace the bearing.
Brakes... I got a similar sympthom once, shacking when brakes were presed. Grounding rotors was the fix. It seems they got slightly bent for some reason and ground them helped on get the surface vertically again. I replaced the rotors later anyway for drilled and slotted ones.
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Post by 71se3834v on Mar 26, 2020 7:28:33 GMT -5
I will have to take a look at my setup on the hazard switch as mine is a Nov build car. Never paid attention. Now wondering if I should stock pile a switch just in case. I probably should replace my headlight switch cause the dimmer reostat doesn't work well.
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