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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Jun 4, 2021 1:54:08 GMT -5
Not just having factory look, but also don't get ANY issue about fitting on body support or hose setup matching. I keep stock whenever is posible specially if there is not a REAL gain with investment comparison.
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Post by riffer74 on Jun 4, 2021 7:51:20 GMT -5
Awesome guys, thanks for the info. I'll look around our area to see where I can take it in, but there really is a big hole in the center where fluid just pours out, but I'm sure they can help that. I'll keep you updated. Thanks again
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,168
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Post by DynoDave on Jun 4, 2021 8:39:57 GMT -5
Awesome guys, thanks for the info. I'll look around our area to see where I can take it in, but there really is a big hole in the center where fluid just pours out, but I'm sure they can help that. I'll keep you updated. Thanks again Yes, that center part...the finned part...is the core. A good old fashioned radiator repair shop can un-solder your upper and lower tanks, remove that old core from the frame, install a new core, solder it all back up, a fresh coat of paint, and you are good to go.
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Jun 4, 2021 10:31:21 GMT -5
In Venezuela the core replacement is not uncommon reusing top and bottom tanks, so I guess in USA will be pretty much the same. Cores are available on the most common sizes and rows used on market.
If you want to upgrade you could change from 3 to 4 rows too ( I think original is 3 rows, right ? ) and should cost way more than the stock replacement.
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Post by riffer74 on Jun 4, 2021 14:00:29 GMT -5
Ok, found a place that'll take it and have a look, along with repairs.
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DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,168
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Post by DynoDave on Jun 4, 2021 15:45:40 GMT -5
In Venezuela the core replacement is not uncommon reusing top and bottom tanks, so I guess in USA will be pretty much the same. Cores are available on the most common sizes and rows used on market. If you want to upgrade you could change from 3 to 4 rows too ( I think original is 3 rows, right ? ) and should cost way more than the stock replacement. Radiator and heater core REPAIR used to be VERY common here Nacho. But as the government has cracked down on the chemicals and solders used, and OE radiators have been aluminum for 30 years now, it's getting hard to find a shop that does this kind of work anymore. AND yes, if there is extra width in the tanks, a thicker (more rows) core may be an option. That's what I had done with my Cordoba radiator.
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Post by riffer74 on Jun 5, 2021 9:34:33 GMT -5
It was funny, I mentioned to the gentleman on the phone the make and model and he instantly asked if it was for sale and said he bought one off the show room floor back in '74
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Post by 71se3834v on Jun 5, 2021 20:05:38 GMT -5
I had Detroit Radiator in Romulus recore mine with extra capacity for somewhere around $425-450 back n 2014.
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Post by riffer74 on Sept 11, 2021 9:26:23 GMT -5
Been out of loop for a bit on the Charger, BUT I did get the radiator rebuilt/recored and all good to go. So, remember (it's been a while) it was getting (weak) power to the dash and wasn't turning over. Found out the battery terminal into the bulkhead was bad, cleaned it up a bit to test it and it had a spark of life where it did finally TRY to turn over but died again....that was last year.
This year, I connected a new terminal, cleaned up the bulkhead and surrounding wiring, tried to turn it over with hopes that it would....and nothing. Still getting power to the map light and glove box light, but now the turn signals aren't working, but the headlights do come on, but VERY weak. So it seems a lot more issues with wiring, but I knew that was expected. I do have a new starter I'm going to put on today.
So I'm a little at a loss here. Do I continue to problem solve this issue or do I call around and have it towed to a shop, but I REALLY don't want (or have) to spend that kind of money if there's a way for me to find out this problem.
What do you guys think?
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Post by Nacho-RT74 on Sept 11, 2021 14:30:00 GMT -5
All small loads will flow easilly along bad contacts, but headlights and turning/hazzards actually suck a lot of load. Have you checked bulkhead connections? Specially black and red ones... ammeter too. These are the weaker points of the electrical system.
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