|
Post by Nacho-RT74 on Oct 11, 2020 15:55:45 GMT -5
Got it in, bit of a pain but it was my first, so now I know how to do things differently Damn! need to say I had in mind you had a Big Block ( still with the engine bay pic on 1 page LOL ), hence I told the water pump could be removed without remove compressor LOL. on Big Blocks the pump can be separated from housing
|
|
|
Post by Nacho-RT74 on Oct 11, 2020 15:58:37 GMT -5
Also. Without digging too deep into Google yet, this has always had my curiousity. How vital is it and what's the part name? Vapor canister. It's for emissions control and gas vapors recirculation from the tank to be burnt by the engine. In Venezuela they weren't installed. Emissions systems uses to be removed on resto/mod &/or performance cars. But if you wanna keep it stock, there is no reason to remove it.
|
|
|
Post by riffer74 on Oct 11, 2020 17:02:29 GMT -5
Great, thanks for the info! Being in Minnesota we don't have emissions but will keep it in place for sure (although I'll clean it up). Next step is radiator flush. I installed a new alternator and upon screw in the adjusting bolt, the inner threads of the alternator seemed stripped. So not sure if I should replace it or rethread it myself. Of course something like this happens as I'm finishing things up. GRRRR!
So the goal is to turn it over...hopefully by next weekend and here's a list of what I've done.
- New plugs - new thermostat - new radiator and bypass hoses (upper and lower) - new oil change - new alternator - new water pump (and gasket)
- still need battery - I would like to clean the engine, so may do a power wash (good or bad idea?)
I have that seafoam stuff, should I add that in prior to starting it? Any suggestion on what else I should do or add before I take the leap on starting it?
|
|
|
Post by 71se3834v on Oct 11, 2020 20:49:37 GMT -5
Charcoal canister. Absorbs vapors from the carb and fuel tank.
Oops! Didn't know there was a 3rd page.
Prime the oil pump through the distributor hole or at least crank it over a bit w/o plugs in to prime oil.
|
|
DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,155
|
Post by DynoDave on Oct 12, 2020 8:29:07 GMT -5
There are only a couple of things to note about the charcoal canister.
That mesh on the bottom is a thin disc of fiberglass, sort of like a dense furnace filter material. It can be carefully removed, blown out under modest pressure, and put back in if it's looking really dirty. Hint: when they were new, they were yellow! LOL
IIRC, the only failure I know of with these is that there is an internal membrane separating the fine ground charcoal from the "purge" vent tube. If the membrane fails, you can get charcoal bits inside that line leading to the carb, and then inside the bowl area of the carb. If you have occasion to open your carb up and find a layer of black charcoal sediment in the bottom of the bowl, check that line leading back to the canister. If you find similar debris inside of it, the membrane has failed, and you'll have to find another used canister.
|
|
|
Post by Nacho-RT74 on Oct 12, 2020 8:46:23 GMT -5
I never have seen that personally, aside on engine bays on my visit to USA to Carlisle back in 2008, so even less know how they are internally, but... is not posible to rebuild that membrane if needed ?
|
|
DynoDave
CO-ADMINISTRATOR
Motown Mopar-Wizard
Posts: 11,155
|
Post by DynoDave on Oct 12, 2020 8:49:23 GMT -5
No, the plastic house if heat welded/glued/sonically welded....fused together in some manner. I won't say it can't be done, but it wasn't designed to come apart.
|
|
|
Post by Nacho-RT74 on Oct 12, 2020 8:57:22 GMT -5
with new glues available I think it could be posible. But would need to see it. Sure, these pieces weren't designed to be serviced! just replaced. But they never though on 50 years later LOL.
I have rebuilt my brake booster check valve !!! LOL
|
|
|
Post by riffer74 on Oct 12, 2020 9:28:26 GMT -5
Thanks again for the help and insight! I'm hoping to get it started next weekend. However, this comment made me scratch my head, not familiar so any feedback on where to locate this and what steps to take is appreciated.
"Prime the oil pump through the distributor hole or at least crank it over a bit w/o plugs in to prime oil."
|
|
|
Post by Nacho-RT74 on Oct 12, 2020 9:43:26 GMT -5
the prime in oil uses to be for the first crank up after an engine rebuild job to save from a dry start up and scratch everthing around. It uses an hex rod with a drill ( I think with reverse speed? can't recall ) and can be inserted into the distribuitor place to reach the oil pump ( big block on pic, but the same for small block ) its around 2 feet long. sometimes is made at several crank positions, to be sure the crank and camshaft holes will meet at certain moment to reach the oil passages up to heads and tappets, filling the tappets remove spark plugs and drip some oil through the holes will help to loose the rings and save cylinder walls too. HOWEVER I think the priming tool is not extremely necesary on a parked engine. Bearings should be still a bit wet, so crank it up couple of times without actually start up the engine ( dist or coil disconnected ) should be enough Still drip a bit of oil into the cylinders is allways a help... maybe even WD40! That will spray everything around.
|
|